Mountain Standards

Posted January 11, 2012

C.A.M.P. XLC Nanotech Crampons

But once I gave them a chance, trusting that the steel front points on the aluminum body would hold up, I found that the XLC Nanotech is one bomber, why-didn't-I-think-of-this piece of gear.



Posted December 20, 2011

Rab Latok Pants: Solid Where It Matters

When I look for winter pants I think of two words, "waterproof" and "hardshell." Some of you (probably people who only ski powder, don't break trail or are too hardcore to use their tools on ice) will disagree. That it is fine, wear your softshells all you want. But I want pants that will keep me dry when kneeling against melting ice, breaking trail in heavy snow or on a multi-day trip. I also want a single pair of pants that I can comfortably climb, skin, ski, hike and, occasionally, toboggan in.



Posted November 4, 2011

Nemo Espri 2P Tent: Shelter From (Most) Storms

The Espri is exceptionally light for a double-wall, with a simple set-up and take-down. And though it's advertised as a backpacking tent, I suspected it would work for most summer alpine climbing in the Cascades and Sierra Nevada. I was right.



Posted October 19, 2011

Metolius Ultralight Offset TCU: Configured For Constriction

Adding these cams to my collection has made my trad rack much more versatile; they absolutely excelled in the granite cracks of Mont Blanc and even tagged along with me in the desert. They are not the best choice for Indian Creek splitters, but funky, flared cracks (on both free and aid routes) are their forte.



Posted October 7, 2011

Feathered Friends Hummingbird Sleeping Bag: No Spooning Necessary

The Hummingbird's size and weight are that of a light, minimalist bag (I've eaten burritos that were bigger). However, the conservative twenty-degree temperature rating, overstuffed fill and moisture-repelling exterior compels me use it on more occasions than just alpine sufferfests.



Posted September 28, 2011

Scarpa Gecko Guide: Lizard-Like Traction

A finely crafted approach shoe should handle the approach and descent, sure. But it should also allow you to step into 5.fun terrain without hesitation. Rarely, if ever, does a shoe do both well. Climbers and footwear manufacturers, take note. I found it.



Posted September 16, 2011

Montbell Super Spiral Down Sleeping Bag: Luxury in Orange

This bag is pure luxury, but if you're into the whole ultra-light minimalist scene, you'll probably be disappointed.



Posted August 12, 2011

Goal0 Sherpa 50 Adventure Kit: Charges Everything

I had owned and eventually broken six solar-powered battery chargers when I started using Goal0's Sherpa 50 Adventure Kit. No piece of the system ever failed to function in a year of frequent use, and it is the most effective solar-powered system I have ever owned.



Posted July 25, 2011

Ueli Steck Special Edition Titanium Knife: Sometimes Useful

Ueli's tool has a function for every piece of gear in my backcountry quiver: a sixty-five millimeter blade, file, hexagonal keys, flat- and Phillips-head screwdriver, wire stripper and can opener. For three months, I used the multitool to tune, tweak, sharpen, crank, slice, saw and open a beer at the end of it all.



Posted July 11, 2011

C.A.M.P. Speed Helmet: The Lightest Lid

Helmets can be so top heavy the straps can't hold them in position. You look back at your partner and his frontal lobe is shining in the sun while the helmet humps the back of his head. Thank goodness technology has finally caught up.



Posted June 20, 2011

Wild Country Rockcentrics: Flexible Not Stiff

The trade-off with the smaller Rockcentrics versus wired hexes is strength, flexibility and weight at the cost of a couple inches of reach. But that is a trade-off that many climbers will be willing to make, especially if you want to supplement an existing rack or simply plan on using them in anchors.



Posted May 13, 2011

Oboz Valhalla Shoes: Climber Inspired, But Not Approved

The Valhalla does an admirable job of balancing the contradictory demands of climbers—light but durable, waterproof yet breathable, stiff but comfortable—but this also means that in no one circumstance do they truly shine. However, that didn't stop them from being my preferred shoes on trips with a little bit of every kind of terrain.



Posted May 2, 2011

Black Diamond Kingpins: Better Than Hardware Store Gloves

Ultimately, the Kingpins don't fit my hand as snugly as I had hoped, though they are still one of the best multi-purpose gloves I have used. The combination of durability, craftsmanship, warmth and attention to detail make these my current favorites for a variety of alpine endeavors.



Posted April 12, 2011

MSR Reactor Stove: Powerfully Efficient

For many years, stove inefficiency was a problem that was largely unaddressed by manufacturers. Finally, a new generation of hyper-efficient stoves hit the market, and MSR's Reactor is by far the best. In my experience, the Reactor reduces my fuel needs by 50 percent.



Posted March 31, 2011

Metolius Master Cam: Sleek and Sexy

While there is a cam or two on the market that has a wider expansion range and can handle shallower cracks, the Master Cam is a worthy competitor and an expertly manufactured piece of pro.



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