Table of Contents

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Fitz Roy

Cerro Torre is the mountain to have climbed; Fitz Roy is the mountain to climb. Rolando Garibotti explores the exploits that have comprised the granite giant's relations to man, while Guido Magnone, Carlos Comesana, Goretta Traverso, Lito Tejedas-Flores, Michal Pitelka and Tim O'Neill recount their adventures on this Patagonian icon.

climbing notes

SAFT WALL, WAITING FOR THE SUN

HAJJI BRAKK

JIRISHANCA

BJEDUH, NORTHWEST WALL

SAFT WALL, 21

AGDLERUSSAKASIT (THE THUMBNAIL), HIDROFILIA

NALUMASORTOQ

YOSEMITE VALLEY

editors note

The Changing Nature of Climbing

letters

Letters

Alpine style is safer, and other surmisings.

faces

Bruno Detassis

The Brenta region of Italy's Dolomites is renowned for its soaring walls and classic lines. In the 1930's, Bruno Detassis established magnificient free routes in the area, all in good style. The King of Brenta reflects on those accomplishments, from the vantage point of his ninety-third year.

climbing life

The Climbing Life

Postcards from the vertical.

inmemoriam

Chasm Lake Shelter, 1931-2003

Chasm Lake Shelter, 1931-2003.

off belay

Off Belay

On farmyard noises that come unexpectedly to the lips and other niceties of winter climbing.

features content

Casarotto Solitaire

Of all the solo climbers in the world, Renato Casarotto chose the boldest lines, the biggest objectives, the wildest dreams. In 1986, while descending from his third attempt on a new route on K2, he fell into a crevasse and died a short distance from base camp. His best friend reflects on that loss and on the man who captivated the world's attention for nearly two decades.

The Curve

Climbing isn't about the views, the partnerships, the immaculate jams and luminous swings: it's about the steep end of the learning curve. One alpinist presents snapshots from his education.

The Adventures of Hardy Grimper

Now wait a second: How did burning helicopters, bare-chested saviors and Hardy on pain killers get in here? Our hero may be down, but with Bev's sister joining the fray, he's far from out.

Jirishanca

What would compel two men to return to a mountain on which they nearly died the year before? An exploration of danger on a Cordillera Huayhuash masterpiece.

Middle Ground

The dilemma is a timeless one for alpinists back east: Should a climber choose the communities and familiarity of New England or the expansive inspiration of the west? One man finds that the tension that holds the two coasts together can also drive a relationship apart.

Nuptse:

Though Nuptse, in the shadow of Everest, has long been ignored by the masses, cognoscenti have valued its lines for years. Doug Scott, who made the first ascent of the north face in 1979, asks the Patagonian brothers their thoughts on their alpine-style new route. With reports from Elizabeth Hawley.