Table of Contents


Mountain Profile: Ben Nevis

Long approaches, short climbs, rain, spindrift, runouts: maybe the cows aren't the only things mad in Britain. Simon Richardson delves into a century of delightful insanity on the Ben, while Robin Shaw, Ken Crocket, Chris Cartwright, Victor Saunders and Ian Parnell explicate the perverse pleasure of full conditions on Scotland's highest peak.

sharp end


Short Pitches

Cragging News.

Editor's Note

The Affabulateurs.


How The Full Potential got its name.

Tool Users

Bradford Washburn's first real camera.




Avoiding the chop and other such rubbish.


Escape Route

Squamish's Freeway is as clean as a white T-shirt in a Tide commercial and boasts a dozen pitches of first- and second-knuckle-swallowing joy. For this Canadian climber, it is, hands down, the best route in the world.

First Ascent

The great Fritz Wiessner himself told Jim McCarthy not to do it. So what did the young climber do? What any budding vulgarian would: he ignored the advice, climbed Wiessner's Crack—and then put up his own route on the untouched west face of Devils Tower.

Full Value

A fractured femur, a dislocated hip, a head injury, eight days of constant avalanches, getting dragged out of the Ruth Gorge in a sleeping bag: it's enough to give anyone pause.

Off Belay

A journey into the heart of Alpine winter.


Better than coffee.

features content

Batso at Rest

Warren Harding enjoys his final climb.


Ines Papert had always dreamed of the perfect ice climb—until a trip to Iceland with Audrey Gariepy taught her she'd have to create it herself.

Gods of the Elements

Venezuela's tepuis offer a strange cocktail of vertical rainforest, bullet-proof sandstone, lethal reptiles and some of the trickiest approaches around: is this the sort of climbing only a local could love?

Life on Top

Summits can be elusive enough; for some of us, the reasons we're drawn to them may seem even more mysterious. Only one thing's for certain: we can't stay on top forever.

Lightning Strikes Last

What do you do when your passion for climbing keeps getting you hurt? Stephan Siegrist simply persevered until seven years of bad fortune led to unexpected good luck.

local heroes

Local Heroes

Rolando Garibotti celebrates one of America's great unsung heroes: Bruce Miller. With photographs by Ted Wood.