The Alpinist Mountain Standards reviews apply Alpinist's tradition of excellence and authenticity to gear reviews by providing unbiased, candid feedback and anecdotal commentary to equipment tested (hard) in the field. Our panel is comprised of climbers who use the gear every day as part of their work and play. Only the gear they would actually buy themselves, at retail price, qualifies for the Alpinist Mountain Standards award. The five-star rating system is as follows: One Star = Piece of junk. Two Stars = Has one or more significant flaws, with some redeeming qualities. Three Stars = Average. This solid piece of gear is middle-of-the-road on the current market. Four Stars = Better than most comparable gear on the market. It has one or two drawbacks, but still 90% positive. Five Stars = Is there such thing as perfection? An Alpinist Mountain Standards award-winner. Review Panel Adam George Caroline George Larry Goldie Blake Herrington John Race Bert Severin Jed Workman The rest of the MS Team Also in This Area
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 Petzl e+lite: For Emergencies and Every DayPosted on: October 18, 2007 
MSRP: $29.95 Weight: 27 grams The luggage gods are not kind. Multiple times, when traveling internationally, I've had to wait days for my luggage to catch up with me. I'm starting to get used to it—but it becomes problematic when I'm scheduled to guide clients and my gear is in airline purgatory. This was the case at the outset of a recent twelve-day trip to the Alps. Luckily, my bags arrived on the first evening as we prepared to leave for a backcountry hut. But one of our clients was not so lucky—her bag had not arrived by the time we departed. Between me and the other guide, we assembled an ample amount of climbing gear for the client. She ended up with my normal LED headlamp, and I pulled the Petzl e+lite from my first aid kit to use for myself. The e+lite has never gone back into my first aid kit—it now serves as my all-around headlamp. Petzl designed the e+lite to be a secondary headlamp that would live in the bottom of your pack, first aid kit or glove box until an emergency situation would mandate using it. With this is mind, Petzl crafted the e+lite at an unbelievably light 27 grams. They also included two lithium watch batteries designed to last up to ten years in storage. Additionally, the e+lite is waterproof and has the ability to withstand extreme temperatures. Despite its lightweight, minimalist design, I continually am amazed at its luminosity. It features three settings for the white LED (including a flash option), as well as a red LED that allows you to see at night while preserving your night vision. The brightest setting of the main LED provides enough light for predawn route finding while approaching climbs, and I used the red LED in bunkrooms of crowded huts without fear of blinding people in the middle of the night. In order to accommodate an easy fit, the e+lite's thin elastic strap is equipped with a cordlock. It also features a clip that can attach to a pack strap, hat or just about anything else. Adding to the ease of use, the headlamp swivels 360 degrees on a ball socket. advertisement
Since I use the e+lite all the time, I had to track down some replacement batteries. Petzl claims that the two included batteries will last forty-five hours. Mine, however, didn't quite make it that long before becoming too dim to use. New batteries are two dollars apiece—not bad compared to the cost of replacing AAAs in a standard LED headlamp—and weigh less than a nickel each. Overall, the e+lite is good for emergencies and great for going light. In my mind, the design of this product is the closest I've seen to perfection for a headlamp in a long while. Pros: Although marketed for emergencies, this headlamp's light weight, small size and waterproof qualities make it a great ultralight torch; has both white and red modes; features are well designed. Cons: Light does not stay bright for as long as Petzl claims. Rating: |
This is a great little lamp. The lithium batteries are key for use in winter conditions. My only problem with it is that it's so popular at home - it's absolutely the shizz for ultra races - that I have to give it as a gift for Christmas so that I don't have to have the "Who's got my little headlamp?" conversation every time I head out the door.