The Alpinist Mountain Standards reviews apply Alpinist's tradition of excellence and authenticity to gear reviews by providing unbiased, candid feedback and anecdotal commentary to equipment tested (hard) in the field. Our panel is comprised of climbers who use the gear every day as part of their work and play. Only the gear they would actually buy themselves, at retail price, qualifies for the Alpinist Mountain Standards award. The five-star rating system is as follows:
One Star = Piece of junk.
Two Stars = Has one or more significant flaws, with some redeeming qualities.
Three Stars = Average. This solid piece of gear is middle-of-the-road on the current market.
Four Stars = Better than most comparable gear on the market. It has one or two drawbacks, but still 90% positive.
Five Stars = Is there such thing as perfection? An Alpinist Mountain Standards award-winner.
The rest of the MS Team
Trango's featherweight Superfly Wire Gate biners
Posted on: October 30, 2006
Fast and light always took a backseat to cheap and available when it came to my rack. I justified this mentality by telling myself that the added weight translated into added durability. That attitude completely changed when I picked up a box of Trango's Superfly Wire Gate biners.
Let me start by saying although these biners weigh a scant thirty grams each they provide twenty-four kN of strength along their major axis. The rest of the biners on my rack weigh a whopping fifty grams apiece and only offer one additional kN of strength.
The size and weight of the Superflys make them particularly well suited for the mountains. I racked a few key pieces on Superflys to shave some weight for Teton moderates this summer, and they haven’t missed a trip yet. The biners disappeared from my thoughts - exactly what I wanted them to do until I needed them. Despite their slightly smaller size they still clipped easily, even in my large, uncoordinated hands. Since then, these biners have worked their way onto nearly every piece of my gear, proving to be an extremely light, versatile part of my rack.
For added security, Superflys are also available in a locking gate in addition to standard and bent models. I'm quick to clip one of these featherweight lockers on cruxy gear, or to ensure that my camera stays put. A Superfly locker is permanently devoted to anchor my auto-blocking belay device, and at only forty-one grams, they're perfect to use for any of those "just in case" moments.
Trango has given me everything I need in a biner with the Superfly family. Now if only I could halve the weight of the rest of my gear.