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A discussion of mixed reactions to a mixed winter ascent of the Diamond
Whenever there is an ascent that breaks away from expected norms in terms of tactics, style, difficulty, whatever—it is usually worth a second look, if for no other reason than to better understand its implications. A recent example came across my desk on March 21, regarding an odd “mixed-style” (my words) free ascent of D7 (IV 5.11+) on the Diamond of Longs Peak (14,255′) in Rocky Mountain National Park…. When I saw the photos of the climbers using ice tools on a classic alpine summer free route, like many people, I was startled. But then again, would we think twice…
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Impossible Things
Dawn Wall free in a day. There, I thought it, said it, wrote it. Someday it’s sure to happen, yes? Séb Berthe agrees…. Saying, speaking, believing—these all make a thing that much closer to reality. Or, potentially, they only lead one deeper into rabbit holes of delusion. Fanciful, futuristic things are generally assumed to be delusion until they are made real by alchemists—people who maybe have to be at least a little bit mad to believe such possibilities in the first place. Climbers constantly test themselves against delusion.
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1984: Sarah’s Summit
At age thirteen, Sarah Doherty lost her right leg to a drunk driver, but the accident didn’t stop her from pursuing athletics. She became the first female amputee to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier in 1984.
Current Issue
Alpinist 89 | Spring 2025
Cover: Mary Catherine Eden squeezes up Gabriel (5.13), an offwidth route in Zion National Park. Keisuke Mizuno
Features
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Navigating a Crack of Doom
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Any climber worth their salt must understand their relationship with ego. It affects not only the individual but also those around them, even the environment and future generations, a ring of ripple effects…. More and more people are entering the ‘sport’ with a different focus and philosophy. What they are seeking on the rocks and…
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The Green Man
After being involved in an avalanche that killed a beloved member of her community in Colorado’s Elk Range in 2020, Laura Yale begins a journey to untangle a web of grief. She explores the ways ancient cultures coped with the reality of loss, acknowledging the natural process of death, and brings the old wisdom to…
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Hard to Explain
In honor of Veterans Day, we’re sharing this story from Alpinist 87—which is currently available on newsstands and in our online store. In this short fiction story, Ben Davis depicts a mostly silent conversation between military veterans as they make their way up the east face of Longs Peak (Neniisoteyou’u, 14,255′).
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Worth the Weight?
This feature story by Michael Gardner originally appeared in Alpinist 77 (Spring 2022). On October 7, 2024, Gardner fell to his death while attempting Jannu East (7648m) with his close friend and longtime partner Sam Hennessey, who made it down safely with another team of climbers. The details of the accident are still unknown and…
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Fabulous Roman Candles
[This story originally appeared in Alpinist 87 (Autumn 2024), which is now available on newsstands and in our online store. Only a small fraction of our many long-form stories from the print edition are ever uploaded to Alpinist.com. Be sure to pick up the hard copies of Alpinist for all the goodness!–Ed.] Death is only…
The ALPINIST Podcast
The Alpinist podcast extends our conversations with climbers and community members into a new medium: from fresh interviews to untold stories, and from humorous adventure tales to in-depth discussions of significant issues in the climbing world today.
Episode 66 | The Alpinist Podcast
Babsi Zangerl on Learning, Growing and Flashing El Cap
In this episode, Babsi Zangerl talks about the beginnings of her climbing career in Austria, her partnership with Larcher, learning the ropes from Hansjörg Auer and much more.
Episode 65 | The Alpinist Podcast
Rick Accomazzo: Tobin, The Stonemasters, and Me
Rick Accomazzo shares the story of his friend in his new book, Tobin, The Stonemasters, And Me: Remembering Tobin Sorenson, The Best Climber In The World. Accomazzo shares his personal experiences climbing with Sorenson and reflects on the ability, character and accomplishments that made him so singular in the climbing universe.
Newswire
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A mixed-style free ascent of the Diamond in winter, sans crampons
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Colorado climbers Jesse Huey, Matt Segal and their Canadian friend Quentin Roberts recently completed a winter, mixed-style free ascent of D7 on the Diamond of Longs Peak (Neniisoteyou’u, 14,255′). Though they used ice axes to dry tool the thin cracks of the 5.11+ route, they did not use crampons to avoid leaving scratch marks on one of the state’s most classic alpine climbs. There were also short sections that required bare hands to climb. All three climbed the ca. 600-foot route without jumaring to clean and follow the pitches.
More NEWSWIRES
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A Preview of the 28th Annual Bozeman Ice Fest
The annual Bozeman Ice Festival kicks off tonight, Tuesday, December 10, with a free Community Night hosted by the American Alpine Club at 6 p.m. at the Lockhorn Cider House. The festival officially starts Wednesday, December 11, and continues through Sunday, December 15, with a variety of events, ranging from ice climbing clinics in Hyalite Canyon to entertainment in town, including presentations by top climbers, film screenings and parties. Many of the proceeds benefit a cost-sharing program between the Forest Service, Gallatin County and Friends of Hyalite that keeps the road into the canyon plowed and open through the winter.…
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Two proposals threaten America’s rock climbing
Policy proposals are now being considered by the National Park Service (NPS) and US Forest Service (USFS) that threaten to fundamentally change the way rock climbing is managed. A comment period for these proposals has recently been extended to January 30. It is important that climbers make our presence known and kindly share our perspectives to help non-climbing land managers better understand what we do and how we do it, especially when it comes to climbing in wilderness areas.
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New route on Mt. Dickey, Alaska: Aim For the Bushes
Over a three-day push from March 31 to April 2, Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau climbed a new route on the east face of Mt. Dickey in Alaska’s Ruth Gorge. They named their line Aim For the Bushes (AI6 M6 X, 5,250′). Rousseau narrates their adventure.
Mountain Standards gear reviews
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Patagonia Women’s Dual Aspect Jacket and Bibs: Stay dry in the mountains without sacrificing comfort or function
If you want to fantasize about snow in the middle of summer, check out Miya Tsudome’s review of the Patagonia Dual Aspect Jacket and Bibs. She reports that the company’s proprietary H2No performance standard for waterproofing is lightweight and passed “the hose test,” but it does give up some durability compared to Gore-Tex. Added pluses…
