Petzl Luna Harness: Everything a Woman Wants

Posted on: August 27, 2007


MSRP: $79.95

Weight: 425 grams (women's medium)

In the midst of searching for the right lightweight alpine harness for this season, Alpinist's call to review the Petzl Luna couldn't have come at a better time. Out of the slick mesh bag it comes packed in, my first critical look quickly revealed that the harness had the features I desired: lightweight and compact; four gear loops that would be compatible with wearing a pack; adjustable leg loops; a full-strength loop in the back for a tag line; and mesh construction that offers enhanced breathability. I've had the harness for over a month and used it for typical guiding days in the Tetons, where its lightness and breathability is an asset.

My search for the right harness was primarily for later in the season for long routes in the Cascades and preparing for my AMGA Alpine Exam. From the pitches I've gotten in it so far, I can tell it's going to be the right harness for the job. I have always been impressed with Petzl's harnesses, which have led the pack for nearly a decade with their patented buckle system, and this one steps up to provide a lightweight, compact model that alpinists need.

advertisement

That the Luna is women's specific is a total bonus. The Luna is the women's equivalent to Petzl's new and improved men's Adjama. They've increased the rise and added more support in the back for the feminine physique. It feels as good as it looks sexy. Petzl has blended a woven polyester 3D mesh with more rigid polyethylene/EVA foam and perforated closed cell foam to make a rigid system that combines support and breathability.

Their patented double-back buckle system is relatively easy to undo completely when you may need to put the harness on while wearing skis. They've made the belay loop green to clearly identify it as the strongest point on the harness and the correct point to attach the belay or rappel device. Additionally they've added a slot on each side of the harness to accept their Caritool ice screw/tool clips, which is awesome. Overall, the Luna feels good on, is comfortable to hang in, is small when it has to go in the pack and feels like the right harness for long routes in the mountains, where every ounce counts.

The only downside I can find so far is the placement of the gear loops. They are situated farther back on the harness than I like, but the materials used to make them compatible with wearing a pack make up for it. At $79.95 retail, this harness is a great value. Although it will excel as a lightweight alpine harness, it has all the features to make it versatile enough for sport climbing and trad as well.

Pros: Women-specific and comfortable fit; easy buckle system; compactable and lightweight for the alpine; great value

Cons: Gear loops are placed relatively far back for my liking

Rating:

Here at Alpinist, our small editorial staff works hard to create in-depth stories that are thoughtfully edited, thoroughly fact-checked and beautifully designed. Please consider supporting our efforts by subscribing.


Comments
pattigonia

Great review Angela! I purchased the Luna two months ago and really appreciate the fit, lightness, support & breathability. I do not like the gear loops. I don't like the placement-too far back. The gear loop material is not as stiff as the loops on my old harness (petzyl unisex starts with a "c" coratz?) and clipping & unclipping gear is not as seamless. I'm a new rock/ice leader and I need all the help I can get! The unisex model was too big for me to wear during the summer without all of my winter climbing layers but I know that come ice season I will be using the unisex model. The harness does feel sexy though:)

2007-09-26 09:17:58
RockJoke

I'm not sure what is meant by "full-strength" here, but the haul loop on the new petzl harnesses is not a bar-tacked loop of webbing like on Yates, Arcteryx, etc. It's just a wee piece of cord-sheath, which is probably fine for holding a rope, but not so good as an anchor attachment point (for photography or whatever).

2007-09-11 17:23:17
Post a Comment

Login with your username and password below.
New User? Here's what to do.



Forgot your username or password?