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First Ascent of Jasemba’s South Wall

Three Swiss alpinists reached the summit of Jasemba (aka Pasang Lhamu Chuli, 7350m) in Nepalese Himalaya after four days of climbing, October 26-29, making the mountain’s first ascent via its south wall.

Samuel Anthamatten, Simon Anthamatten and Michael Lerjen climbed the 1550-meter wall in alpine style, finding steep ice, large snow mushrooms, a 150-meter band of rock near the summit and lots of snow slogging that slowed their progress.

After summiting at 2:30 p.m. on the 29th, the trio began their rappels. In a blog report, Simon Anthamatten likened the striking peak to the Matterhorn. “Once you reach the summit,” he said, “you are only half way through.”

The descent required 25 rappels on v-threads, stoppers, Camalots, a buried ice ax and telescope stick segment, the blog report said. The team reached base camp on October 30; they are en route to Switzerland today.

More information will be posted on Alpinist.com when it becomes available.

Sources:
Simon Anthamatten, anthamattens.ch,
climbing.com