Lama's Bolts Cut: It Begins Again

Posted on: November 16, 2010


News Flash: The following news flash is a preliminary report posted as a service to our readers. Alpinist has not confirmed the veracity of its contents but will post a story in detail when more information becomes available.-Ed.

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In a recent post on Supertopo.com Rolo Garibotti reports cutting seventeen of the bolts placed by David Lama's film crew on Cerro Torre. Last winter, professional climber David Lama set out to free Maestri's Compressor Route, and make a film of the expedition. Boasting of his plan to climb the route in a purer style, Lama began his "project" and his film crew began drilling. When news of the team's actions were published online it set off a firestorm of criticism and a boycott of RedBull, the team's sponsor. Garibotti reported leaving at least three bolts (after cutting seventeen) above the Col of Patience and that another twenty, including retro-bolted anchors, exist below the Col. (In a statement Lama reported that his team had left twelve bolts above the Col and fourteen below.) Garibotti also states that local guides pulled down the last of five haul bags left by the team. (Lama reported leaving only the bolts and a single bag.) Garibotti writes that the bolts above the Col were all "very much on route" and that on the rappel "next to each of [the new] bolted anchors there are old rap stations on natural gear." His post on supertopo.com can be read here.

Sources: supertopo.com



Comments
avsfan8

@jogglp "I might miss the ethic or moral point, however just because there is a bolt does not mean you have to clip it if the inner desire is to stay pure."

The desire isn't for US to stay pure, the point is to keep the ROCK pure. I'm with Royal on making every effort to keep the rock clean.

Good work Rolo.

2011-01-27 00:52:38
e9climbing.blogspot.com

The obvious ethical issue with adding bolts to existing routes (abseil rotes included) must be that the over all commitment level is changed. A route is not finished until you hit the bar in the valley so adding bolts on the abseil route is for sure changing the character of a mountain.

2010-11-21 02:57:57
jogglp

....i might miss the ethic or moral point, however just because there is a bolt does not mean you have to clip it if the inner desire is to stay pure.......

2010-11-20 09:13:01
AlpineEssence

Now we will have to decide on a new thing to get mad about. How about Sarah Palin? I could see her bolting something too. Well, at least doing a lot of drilling.

2010-11-17 14:47:46
scotty vincik

All that's necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing. Good job, Rolo. It is only a few bolts on a huge mountain, but for our sport, a strict ethic means everything.

2010-11-17 05:31:12
crillwd

Way to go Rolo, a service to all!

2010-11-16 21:45:56
e9climbing.blogspot.com

Had to comment on this

e9climbing.blogspot.com/2010/11/in-sharp-contrast-el-cap-and-cerro.html

2010-11-16 04:57:38
Keese Lane

Schooner, I just posted that like a minute before you responded! How do you do that?

2010-11-16 02:08:52
Schooner

Thank you Rolando.

2010-11-16 01:48:11
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