Everest and Lhotse in 21 Hours

Posted on: May 19, 2011


Everest and Lhotse pictured here, were climbed in under a day by Michael Horst. [Photo] Alpine Ascents International

On May 14, American guide Michael Horst climbed Everest (8848m) and Lhotse (8516m) in under 21 hours. We believe this establishes him as the first to climb two 8,000-meter peaks in a single day.

Horst, a guide for Alpine Ascents International, signed on for climbing both peaks with client Rob Hart and two Sherpas as part of AAI's Everest Lhotse combination program. Once the team summitted Everest at 9:30 a.m., they returned to Camp IV at the South Col (7906 meters). Following an afternoon rest, Horst traversed the South Col and began climbing Lhotse without Hart, who was content just summitting Everest. Horst reached the summit at 5:50 a.m., 21 hours after he summitted Everest.

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Throughout the two climbs and during his recuperation in the South Col camp, Horst used supplementary oxygen. During his climb from Lhotse's High Camp (7800 meters) to the summit, he also ascended fixed lines established by the Sherpas. Horst is still in the field and was unavailable for comment on his climb.

Sources: Alpineascents.com, Climbing.com, Gordon Janow

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Comments
climbon45

It depends on what accomplishment is being claimed. If a climber claims to not have used bottled O2 and then is discovered to have done so, then, yes, that would negate the legitimacy. No such claim was made here so there is nothing illegitimate about Michael Horst's tremendous achievement. The only person who possibly can denigrate this is the first person who can do the same thing without O2 and fixed lines.

2011-08-05 00:27:26
tofu

that's cool. but is it normal to count summit to summit time of 21 hours as the record? shouldn't it be time start on everest and time end lhotse? what's the standard?

2011-06-02 04:10:34
Roger Strong

Fun accomplishment Michael, congrads, i'm sure you have to be psyched. I hope, for the sake of preserving the essence of true alpinism, that it feels like a good warm up to what you are truly capable of; an honest alpine ascent that doesn't use fixed lines or bottled 02....save that for work and helping your clients achieve their high altitude dreams!

2011-05-29 05:51:48
Roger Strong

Fun accomplishment Michael, congrads, i'm sure you have to be psyched. I hope, for the sake of preserving the essence of true alpinism, that it feels like a good warm up to what you are truly capable of; an honest alpine ascent that doesn't use fixed lines or bottled 02....save that for work and helping your clients achieve their high altitude dreams!

2011-05-28 23:21:28
biseman

While this is certainly an impressive speed record, Horst climbed two non technical routes using fixed ropes prepared by Sherpa and sucking back the Os in between. It doesn't hold a candle to the boldness and ingenuity of Honnold or Potter let alone many other linkups in the mountains.

2011-05-25 23:45:58
Tuna

I don`t feel you need to be an intermediate or expert Alpine climber to be stunned by the accomplishment of Michael Horst. I don`t care if he used oxygen or not, the sheer physical and mental concentration it takes to climb either rock, let alone two, in 21 hours is amazing. It deserves to be on par with some of the mind-blowing feets by Alex Honnold and Dean Potter. Amazing,I`m glad I am alive to read and some of these exploits.

2011-05-24 15:14:08
zswinston

I'm certainly no expert on high altitude alpine climbing, but doesn't using bottled oxygen negate the legitimacy of the accomplishment? I'm not judging, more asking...

2011-05-21 07:00:31
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