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Posted on: March 4, 2011
This photo shows Sanjski Joza (VI/V, M7+, 1050m), the direct variation that Slovenian climbers, Andrej Grmovsek and Luka Krajnk, climbed on the north face of Triglav in early February. [Photo] Andrej Grmovsek
During unusually favorable winter conditions in the Julian Alps, two Slovenian climbers established a direct variation up the north face of Triglav (2864m). Andrej Grmovsek and Luka Krajnc spent 33 hours linking together parts of three summer routes to form their direct line. The new route is named Sanjski Joza (VI/V M7+, 1050m) or "Dream Joza" in honor of Joza Cop who first climbed its upper section in the summer of 1945.
Andrej Grmovsek on the final headwall. [Photo] Luka Krajnc
The first two sections of the new line include portions of Sakalaska (summer V+) and the rarely repeated Varianta Fajdiga-Pintar (summer VI+). These lower sections consisted of steep snow (80-90 degrees) that were technically not "super hard" but dangerously difficult to protect. Much of the pair's time was spent digging down through snow to find marginal pro in the limestone below. The final 300 meters of Sanjski Joza is the aforementioned traditional summer route Copov Steber (VI+) and consists mostly of steep rock. It presented Grmovsek and Krajnc with the most technical of Sanjski Joza's mixed sections. Mentally this section was easier thanks to solid protection and several pitons left by summer climbers.
The new route ranks among the hardest winter routes in Slovenia. However, as Grmovsek points out, the Slovenian mountains are lower than the rest of the Alps and conditions are highly variable. For example the top section of this route, Copov Steber, has been free-climbed in rock shoes in the middle of winter. A neighboring route, Sanjski Ozebnik (VI/V+, M7), normally climbed in two days was recently soloed by Dejan Koren in an admirable 3.5 hours, thanks to the M7 pitch being packed full of snow.
Luka Krajnc under the headwall. [Photo] Andrej Grmovsek
Sources: Andrej Grmovsek, Luka Krajnk, planetmountain.com, grmoclimb.net