Trio Climbs All 8000m Peaks Without O2

Posted on: August 24, 2011


Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner has become the first woman to ascend all fourteen mountains over 8,000 meters without using supplemental oxygen. She and the rest of the team are currently descending to Camp 1.

Kaltenbrunner reached the summit of K2 (8611m) on Tuesday, August 23, via the north ridge with Vassily Pivtsov, Maxut Zumayev and Darek Zaluski. Tuesday's summit was the fourteenth oxygenless 8000m ascent for Kaltenbrunner, Pitsov and Zumayev. Including these three, twenty-six people have done all 8000 meter peaks, of whom only Rheinhold Messner, Erhard Loretan, Juanito Oiarzabal, Alberto Inurrategi, Ed Viesturs, Silvio Mondinelli, Ivan Vallejo, Denis Urubko, Veikka Gustafsson, Joao Garcia, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Maxut Zhumayev and Vassily Pivtsov have reached the summits without using bottled oxygen. (Note: The claims of four other individuals are currently disputed.)

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The Austrian Kaltenbrunner climbed above 8000m for the first time at age twenty-three when, in 1994, she climbed the sub summit of Broad Peak (8027m). She climbed five more 8,000ers while working as a nurse before turning professional in 2003. Kaltenbrunner's climbs have not been without mishap. In 2007 two of her partners were killed in an avalanche that struck their camp and last year her partner Fredrik Ericsson was killed while attempting the Bottleneck of K2's Abruzzi Spur.

Maxut Zhumayev , born 1/1/1977 hails from Kazakhstan and is an experienced mountaineer. In 2010 Zhumayev was one of the first climbers to raise doubts about Christian Stangl's summit of K2. Zhumayev's doubts that were verified when Stangl admitted he never actually reached the top. This was the sixth year that Zhumayev attempted K2. For Vassily Pivtsov, also of Kazakhstan, this last expedition was his seventh attempt on K2. His first was in 2003 as a member of a Polish winter expedition. Darek Zaluski, from Poland, is an experienced mountaineer and filmmaker.

Sources: Desnivel.com, Explorersweb.com, K2Bottleneck.wordpress.com, Russianclimb.com-Zhumayev, Sport.PL, Gerlinde-KaltenBrunner.at, Torok.ro



Comments
anamo

Without diminishing Vassily's and Maxut's accomplishments - but the real headline should have been: First woman climbs all 8000m peaks without O2. Gerlinde wrote climbing history! And Alpinist honors it with a headline: 'Trio climbs all 8000m peaks without O2'. I would have expected more....

2011-09-19 11:43:36
Keese Lane

Thank Rodrigo we'll check it out.

2011-08-30 01:58:49
Rodrigo Peron

Dear Keese,

Vassily Pivtsov, just like Carlos Carsolio (Makalu) and Edurne Pasaban (Kangchenjunga), needed medical oxygen to recover on descent. You can check this out with Himalayan Database.

Congratulations for your fine article,

A great hug from Brazil.

2011-08-29 21:41:37
Keese Lane

@ Rodrigo Peron Link Please? We tried to confirm all the oxygen free ascents before we posted this Newswire. (That is why we posted a day after the ascent.) And we cannot find any reports on Pivtsov using O2.

www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=15920 www.nepalitimes.com/issue/347/Leisure/13498 7summits.com/forum/index.php?topic=1494.0

2011-08-28 23:38:50
Rodrigo Peron

In fact, Vassily used supplemental oxygen on Everest. Only Gerlinde and Maxut completed the 14 noox.

2011-08-28 19:08:41
e9climbing.blogspot.com

@ Alpinist

Cool!

2011-08-28 16:07:14
carlos

What about Darek Zaluski, who climbs with them too?

2011-08-26 01:16:58
Keese Lane

Point Taken E9

2011-08-25 22:16:57
e9climbing.blogspot.com

Why is not Vassily Pivtsov and Maxut Zumayev getting any head lines? Well they are low profile no spray climbers from a remote country only known for Borat to the masses. Having been on a winter trip to Nepal with assily Pivtsov trying a small peak I can only say he is truly a world class alpinist. Vassily Pivtsov and Maxut Zumayev has completed the 14 x 8000 meter peak quest in a style few can compare to.

In order to do Everest in the best possible style avoiding crowds they arrived at the North side 4 weeks ahead of the crowds and was descending from the summit as Sherpas was fixing ropes to the North Col. They had a close call as it was cold as fuck that early in the season and dehydration was sever after 3 day above 8000.

I have huge respect for Vassily Pivtsov and Maxut Zumayev. If I'm right this was there 8th try on K2 and I think they have been over 8000m on all 7 previous attempts. Thats a record in its self!!!! Out of the 7 tries in the past they have been to the North side before as well as an attempt in winter.

I also think they are among the fastest to finish of the 14 X 8000 meter quest.

Chapeau!!!!!

2011-08-25 16:20:17
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