Adventure Lifestyle Video

Smash and Grab

Posted on: May 8, 2012

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In 2011 David Burdick, John Frieh and Zac West climbed a new route on the Burkett Needle (~8,500 ft.), a tower on the Stikine Icecap of Southeast Alaska. The route, Repeat Offender (IV 5.9 AI3 M5), was done in three days, Seattle to Seattle. Below, Burdick describes the style of "Smash and Grab" climbing and the preparation that makes such climbs possible.

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Comments
AlpineEssence

I think you guys did a great job with the climb and the video editing especially. Congratulations, just in case my thoughts about schoon's fast food alpinism detracted from how impressed I am with the kick ass climbs you guys are pulling off in limited time windows. I am pretty psyched about reaping weather window benefits as well with an unfortunately busy schedule. Great job!

2012-05-20 04:28:08
John Frieh

Hey everyone

Glad some of you liked the video.

As an FYI of sorts anyone accepting grant money (like us) from the great people at the Copp Dash Inspire Award are required BY CONTRACT to feature the logos of the companies that support the grant. Instead of just using the standard logo on a black screen like so many others do we opted to use close ups of actual items we used on the trip. I hope this clears up why the obvious product placement at the start of the video.

If you really dont like it consider emailing the fine companies that do support the grant and ask them to rewrite the contract.

John Frieh Portland, OR

2012-05-16 21:54:57
Keese Lane

tnorm2000, mr positive, prolettnfeianlaengaah, and Michael H could you all email Keese@Alpinist.com your names and addresses. Thanks.

2012-05-15 19:06:30
rob dillon

OK, I went back and watched it. They did indeed rock it, and clearly they train hard and deserve every bit of success.

I still don't need to see closeups of labels. It seems unnecessarily fetishistic, as if the stuff was not a means but the end in itself. Maybe that's how the gear makers want us to think but I prefer to contemplate the talent and drive of the people in the story. I bet it would make Yvon squirm a bit, too.

2012-05-15 05:38:02
mr positive

i agree michael h. just check out whartons and walshes effort in a weekend. call it. whatever

2012-05-14 11:13:41
Michael H

It is often hard to interpret comments on internet forums, but in this case, does anyone honestly care that much about the gear ads in the video? Alpinist has plenty of ads. So does Climbing, Rock and Ice, tv, radio etc. These guys did what appears to be a terrific route, and were sufficiently prepared in all aspects to get it done. If they were able to get some financial support from the industry, good on them. There is a reality of "annual leave" or "sick leave" for many in various professions who are working to make ends meet and that often dictates how much time is available to pursue personal passions. Whether that's called Smash and Grab or Get Your Ass Ready and Go Get It - isn't the outcome the same? Nice work guys, and a fine job of eliminating some common excuses of why it couldn't happen.

2012-05-14 06:52:36
AlpineEssence

I'm not sure about all this smashing and grabbing, sounds more like what I hear about when I am facilitating process groups with kids in juvy. Though I don't much feel like a healthy respect for the mountains is communicated through the smash and grab name, I do feel like the climb and the video are well done. Yes, there is a lot of emphasis on gear labels. I just waited and then skipped that part. The rest IS worth a watch. It seems like this is a good way to get climbs done and get back to our office chairs as fast as we can, but I do wonder what it will mean as far as younguns developing their in mountain weather and avy evaluation skills if this is to be the new norm.

2012-05-14 02:49:20
mr positive

cut it out you downers and mud slingers. these guys are way rad and have worked hard for their biceps and feats. give them kudos and credit instead of mud pucky poo. great websites, too, guys...one is even a very accomplished master weighter in jim jones. schooner...maybe you would know that if you stopped being a dopey downer about everything totally neat and jazzy like this. woo-hoooooo! mount that pillar and stick in that axe guys!

2012-05-13 00:56:23
Grant Reaper

looks like you guys need more grants....

2012-05-13 00:45:49
Schooner

Mr. Zach Hoyt and Dieter Klose coined "smash and grab" by the way readers...not original content. But the gear shot ads sure are genuine.

2012-05-13 00:41:42
HikerClimber007

You missed at least a dozen logo shots!

2012-05-10 21:59:50
prolettnfeianlaengaah

ditto tnorm2000

2012-05-10 18:16:55
tnorm2000

Rob, Your loss..Not a gear ad. They rocked it.

2012-05-10 12:10:00
jBob

Wow. Awesome video guys, nice work!

2012-05-10 00:38:08
rob dillon

Is this a gear ad? After zooming in on three labels in the first 45 seconds I quit watching.

2012-05-09 22:38:47
Curtis

I reminisce. It's great to see the Needle and environs being explored. Our two person shot at the needle 35 in 78 found the weather non-compliant to ugly with ~20days of rain out of 22 days on the glacier. Congratulations on timing and ascent!!

2012-05-09 17:37:16
Chogori

Thoroughly enjoyed this. Well done.

2012-05-09 16:05:36
pippac

beautifully put together. Thanks for the inspiration

2012-05-09 13:10:15
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