Slovenian Revelations

Posted on: August 7, 2012


After extensive research in the American Alpine Journal and conversations with Alaska locals, Slovenians Anze Cokl, Bor Sumrada, Bostjan Virc, Dusan Huc, Grega Anzman, Janez Rutar, Matej Pobenzin, Urban Iglic, Valentina Mravlje, Ziga Fujan, operating under the team moniker "Freeapproved" have established twelve new routes in Alaska's Revelation range. Anze Cokl describes the Revelation Mountains as a "Mountaineer's heaven," and for good reason. All but one of the peaks surrounding the Slovenian team's basecamp were unclimbed prior to the expedition.

Over the course of twenty-three days, the team put up their ascents, climbing the most obvious lines up couloirs, gullies and ridges. Arriving under a spell of clear weather, the team set up base camp atop an unnamed glacier at around 1536 meters. From here, they launched their expedition, climbing and skiing almost every day.

Although the majority of the team's climbs were not particularly technical, the sheer volume of ascents makes the team's efforts noteworthy. Routes like The Final Frontier (V 3-4, 1100m), Sleepwalker (V 4, M5, 700m) and the first ascent of Freeapproved peak (2709m) represent the trip's highlight climbs.

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Below is a list of all the ascents the team made during their expedition.

SW Buttress / 70 degrees / 40-50 degrees, M4, 600 m / Freeapproved Spitz / Greg Azman, Anze Cokl

Serbian couloir / 45 degrees, 580 m / Saddle Peak under David (2278m) / Urban Iglic, Dusan Huc

SW ridge / 45 degrees / Little Ant Peak (2040m) / Valentina ants, Urban Iglic, Dusan Huc

East couloir / 40-45 degrees , 400 m / Frogy pass / Anze Cokl, Matthew Pobe Coklin, Greg Azman

· Baking couloir / 45-65 degrees, 500 m / Spiky Notch (Anze Cokl, Bor Šumrada

S Gendarme of Slovenian Couloir / 150m ridge / Janez Rutar

SW couloir 40 degrees, 350 m / Ziga Fujan Sumrada

S gully 50 degrees, 100m Thin Peak (2158 m) Šumrada Janez Rutar Urban Iglic

The Final Frontier / V/3-4, 1100 m / Freeapproved Peak (2709 m) / Greg Azman, Anze Cokl

My Honey / 55 degrees, 700 (1000) / Three Peak (2236) / Sumrada, Janez Rutar, Matthew Pobezin

Sleepwalker / V / 4, M5, 700 m / Windy Peak (2350 m) / Greg Azman, Anze clogs, Bor Sumrada

Taya / 45 degrees C, UIAA III, 780m / Seven Summits Peak (1807m) / Urban Iglic, Dusan Huc

N Ridge M4, 100 m / David Peak (2438 m) / Greg Azman

S Col Ridge 40 degrees, 350 m / David Peak / SE Ridge Col / Greg Azman, Bor Sumrada



Comments
pierre leguirrard

This are the many routes that i^> have climbed integrale for so many years in before the time now.

2012-08-09 22:20:21
Spraylord

Don't worry Steve, if that happened the magazines would still get by because Alaskans have limitless bitching to do about foreigners and outsiders climbing "their" routes while they were too busy scratching around on their roadside chosspiles and posing at the ARG. ^<ooooh!^>

2012-08-09 05:48:45
Steve Gruhn

I appreciate this party's attempted submission of a report; I merely wanted more detail. TW, I'm not sure how you would want them to record their climbs if not in a mainstream magazine like Alpinist or the American Alpine Journal. If all climbers adopted the ethic of nort recording their climbs in mainstream magazines, such magazines (and their associated websites like this one)would cease to exist.

2012-08-08 23:27:37
David Byrne

It is so easy to lose sight of what makes spending time in the mountains a genuinely beautiful and enriching pursuit. This trailer is straight out of a Monty Python movie. It's more interesting if you look at it as satire.

By the way, new variation to the west face of Flat Top(1070m) yesterday. Packed dirt trail to 35 degrees and mixed climbing to M2 (I had to step over some snow on the trail). I'm calling it the Media Whore Direct (400m). So sick brah. Wal Mart heard the big news and contacted me this morning. They are totally going to sponsor all my front range expeditions from now on! Yee-ha!

2012-08-08 06:36:10
TW

Very nice video and congratulations on your many first ascents. As you say, "Not many places left like [the Revelations]. I hope it doesn't become a major playground..." Agreed, but I'm wondering: why would you so blatantly publicize your exploits if you truly wanted to keep the area pristine? Record the climbs, yes; produce a video and publish an article in a mainstream magazine, maybe not.

2012-08-08 04:54:19
LightnFast

Interesting concerns; I'm sure more detailed information will become available...

What an exceptional trip! I would kill to be able to put up as many routes in such a short time. Good work!

2012-08-08 03:35:57
Steve Gruhn

From these descriptions, it's impossible to tell what this party climbed. It looks like they put forth a lot of effort and made quite a few ascents, but without better descriptions, the names they assigned to their routes and peaks climbed will not be adopted by the rest of the climbing community.

2012-08-07 23:51:46
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