UPDATED: Ueli Steck's Annapurna South Face Solo

Posted on: October 11, 2013


[Video] Don Bowie

October 14 Update:

On the morning of October 9, Dan Patitucci and Tenji Sherpa awoke in their tent and gazed at the South Face of Annapurna. "My dream was that Ueli stood on the summit last night," Tenji said. His dream had been right.

After a 28-hour solo push, Steck summited the South Face, completing the 1992 line attempted by Beghin and Lafaille and the first solo ascent of Annapurna's main South Face. (Tomaz Humar did make a solo ascent on the south side of Annapurna in 2007, by a new route in alpine style. However, what he climbed was a long snow slope on Kangsar Kang [aka Roc Noir; 7485m], a summit on the far east end of Annapurna, not on the main face.)

The route up Annapurna's South Face first attempted by Jean-Christophe Lafaille and Pierre Beghin in 1992. On October 8 and 9, Ueli Steck soloed this same line, continuing past their highpoint to reach the summit after 28 hours. The dotted line is an approximation of Steck's topout.

Speaking of his climb, Steck told planetmountain.com, "In some short sections the ice and firn proved somewhat thin, and on a couple of occasions I had to climb a few metres up rock. Surprisingly the face wasn't really vertical. Just a few sections of stepped terrain. Ideal for soloing." While looking at a photo he had taken of the headwall, Steck was knocked off balance by spindrift. "[A]ll I could do was clutch my ice axes to stop myself from being flushed down the face," said Steck. "In doing so I dropped one of my down gloves and my camera fell, too. I now had to climb into the night with only my [thin gloves]. I wore the down outer glove on either my left or right hand, depending on which felt cold."

"My inner fire is burning once again," he told planetmountain.com afterward. "It was almost extinguished after Everest. Now it's flared up again, fully. This makes me happy and I think I'm beginning to find the fun in life once again!"

Ueli Steck and Don Bowie's first camp at 6100 meters on Annapurna's (8091m). In his book, The Will to Climb: Obsession and Commitment and the Quest to Climb Annapurna, Ed Viesturs writes, "Unlike the north face...the south face rises in one unbroken, gargantuan sweep more than 10,000 feet from the glacier at its base to the summit." [Photo] Ueli Steck collection

The name "Ueli Steck" has become almost synonymous with speed in the mountains, and after Steck's solo ascent of Annapurna's infamous South Face early yesterday morning, his celebrity as a fast and light alpinist only strengthens. In 2007, Steck soloed the Eiger (3970m) in a record time of four hours and 40 minutes, and in 2011 he reached the summit of 8046-meter Shishapangma in an unbelievable 10.5 hours.

In 1960, Chris Bonington gazed upon the face from the summit of Annapurna II (7937m) and recorded in the 1971 American Alpine Journal, "From this viewpoint Annapurna's great south face stood in silhouette, appearing so large and steep that its ascent seemed unlikely." Despite its apparent difficulty, "Annapurna could never be described as a beautiful mountain," Bonington later wrote in Annapurna South Face: The Classic Account of Survival. "[It] has no real shape or form. It is like the body of a great octopus, its tentacles of subsidiary peaks thrown higgledy-piggledy from the central mass... It reminded me of the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses with its three huge buttresses, but it was three times the size and very much more complex."

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Bonington returned to the face in 1970 as part of a large expedition. After several weeks of siege-style attempts, the 11-man team devised a plan to end their "great logistic bottleneck" and slow progress on the upper ridge: "[P]ush the strongest two [alpinists] over the backs of the others in hopes of a quick success." These two were Don Whillans and Dougal Haston, who made the summit in a 2,500-foot push without supplemental oxygen and in poor weather. Bonington called the climb "a superhuman performance. And it was our passport to head home. It brought happiness in all camps and restored a partial degree of unanimity."

Steck and Bowie's camp on Annapurna's South Face. The duo acclimatized together for several weeks before Steck set off for his solo attempt on the face. [Photo] Ueli Steck collection

The South Face garnered three more lines in the 1980s, all to the mountain's shorter, middle summit (8061m). In 1981, a nine-man Polish team fixed 10,000 feet up the longest and right-most buttress (1982 AAJ). Later the same year, a Japanese team put climbers Yukihiro Yanagisawa and Hiroshi Aota on the summit, establishing a direct line in between the 1970 and 1981 routes. On the same expedition, team members Haruyuki Endo and Yasuji Kato were approaching the summit when Kato fell to his death. In 1984, Spaniards Nil Bohigasone and Enric Lucas completed the line first attempted by Alex MacIntyre and Rene Ghilini two years before.

Until now, the South Face has never seen a (recorded) solo ascent. Steck's attempts on the South Face began in 2007, a climb that ended in a 300-meter plunge after rockfall knocked him from the wall. At the time, Steck was attempting a line first tried by Jean-Christophe Lafaille and Pierre Beghin in 1992. A failed anchor at 7100 meters sent Beghin's to his death. Lafaille descended alone, using tent pegs as anchors amid rockfall and avalanches. One rock hit his right arm, breaking the bone. The next day, after splinting his arm, Lafaille continued down the face, "rigging 10-meter rappels with my sound arm and my teeth" (1993 AAJ).

Steck eats breakfast in camp at 6100 meters. He wrote on his blog before the climb, "To walk through life in a comfortable way is still not my goal. This is why I want to try to climb Annapurna a third time. I would like to implement my dreams and visions into reality. Annapurna is one of them." [Photo] Ueli Steck collection

After Steck's 2007 fall, he returned to the wall the next year to attempt a new route, only to be trumped by unsafe avalanche conditions. After descending to Base Camp, Steck and others attempted a rescue of Spanish climber Inaki Ochoa de Olza, who had a seizure and lay incapacitated for five nights before passing away.

A disagreement with rope-fixing Sherpas and the subsequent media frenzy derailed Steck's light-style ventures on Everest earlier this year. Speaking to swissinfo.ch in September about the incident, Steck said that, "After what happened in spring, coming back to Nepal is really important for me....The spring expedition is over, and it was certainly not the greatest story I've ever had, but it happened." Steck began his third attempt on the South Face of Annapurna on September 16, marking his first return to the Himalaya since the incident.

Steck acclimatizes on the slopes of Annapurna. Dodo Kopold wrote in the 2010 AAJ, "People say that Annapurna is dangerous from the north, dangerous and difficult from the northwest, and steep, dangerous, and difficult from the south." [Photo] Ueli Steck collection

After acclimatizing for several weeks with Canadian alpinist Don Bowie, who climbed with Steck in Tibet during the 2011 climbing season, Steck and his partner established advance base camp on Annapurna. Speaking of the climb beforehand, Steck told swissinfo.ch, "The South Face of Annapurna I is an old project. I have attempted it twice already and I guess you need patience if you want to climb hard routes on an 8000m-peak. Sometimes you have a lucky punch, but often you have to go back, and everything has to be right."

Sources: 1971, 1982, 1985, 1993, 2009 and 2010 AAJs, swissinfo.ch, uelisteck.ch, planetmountain.com, Patitucci Photo



Comments
redfred

Not that this accomplishment isn't amazing enough, but do we know how long it took him?

2013-11-21 20:31:32
Edelweiss2529

Im positive Steck's record on Eiger was even faster than that. Not 4h40, it was actually 2h47, in 2008. FYI.

2013-11-02 16:17:24
smartpig

Having climbed to 23,000' on the South side of Annapurna I in 1987 with Ken Reville (who reached 23,000' alpine style via the Bonington route in 1989), and our Sherpa Pemba (?), I can very much appreciate Steck's amazing advancement in high altitude climbing. Well done!

Here is a addendum historical footnote to Ken's and my attempt in 1987 (we were attempting to do the first winter ascent via a new route: www.alpinist.com/doc/web07f/rb-annapurna-east-1987-cunningham.

2013-10-24 23:36:56
Emmanuel

Un hommage à Pierre Beghin et Jean-Christophe Lafaille, Ueli Steck a repoussé les limites du possible bien au-delà, peut-être même dans l'au-delà. Il est sur les traces de Messner, un fils spirituel. Bravo.

2013-10-17 16:14:56
ecrins50

to my knowledge the only way one could fall 7100m would be from an airplane...

What's best about Steck's ascent is how he completely ignored the media - we need a lot more of that now, now more than ever. Alpinists who climb purely for climbing rather than grabbing headlines.

2013-10-16 04:50:21
alpinist

Correction: Pierre Beghin did not fall 7100m, rather FROM 7100m. (Thanks, Tom.)—Ed.

2013-10-14 13:20:37
Tom Chamberlain

"High on the face, a failed anchor sent Beghin's 7100 meters to his death, forcing Lafaille to down climb with no protection" I think that's a way of saying that Beghin fell to his death from somewhere around 7100m altitude. Unless that part of Annapurna starts from sea level.

2013-10-13 11:52:51
ecrins50

This provides slightly more detail, translated roughly from the link above:

"The Swiss mountaineer Ueli Steck on 9 October soloed a first ascent on Annapurna's South Face. He climbed a new route through the 2350 meter rock and ice face, which is one of the most challenging walls in the Himalayas, and is known for its steepness and technical difficulty. A large British expedition needed several weeks and artificial oxygen for their first ascent on another part of wall in 1970."

"According to the photographer & climber Robert Boesch, "Steck climbed directly to the main summit and then descended back to the base of the wall in just 28 hours. This is one of the most outstanding ascents in the Himalayas in recent years. Climbing this very technical wall solo and with such speed, it's a new dimension in high-altitude mountaineering."

2013-10-12 10:33:34
ecrins50

nothing more at all here regarding Steck's ascent - this is simply historical filler about Annapurna's south face

2013-10-12 10:16:40
flatlander3

More on Steck's route, albeit in German, can be found here: www.nzz.ch/aktuell/panorama/ueli-steck-durchklettert-annapurna-suedwand-1.18166210

2013-10-12 09:06:34
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