Web - Winter 2014

China

Posted on: February 14, 2014


[Photo] Swinelin/Wikimedia Commons

Kyzyl Asker (5,842m)

A free ascent of the southeast pillar by Nicolas Favresse, Stephane Hanssens, Sean Villanueva, and Evrard Wendenbaum in 15 days capsule style. After a new integral start, the climb lies very close to the 2007 Russian route as far as Camp 3 on the pillar. Above, it takes an identical line. Conditions were very cold but the 1,200m route was completed at 7b M7/8 with three portaledge camps.

Great Wall of China (north top of ca 5,120m)

Vincent Perrin, Bas van der Smeede, and Bas Visscher made the first ascent of the north face of the north top of the Great Wall of China (opposite Kyzyl Asker): Double Trouble (800m, TD- AI4) was similar to the Swiss Route on Les Courtes.

Ice Tooth (aka Kang Ri, 6,240m)

First ascent of the east ridge of this peak in the Xixabangma group by Luka Lindic, Nejc Marcic, Luka Strazar, Marko Prezelj, and Martin Zumer with one bivouac. Initial difficult rock led to easier mixed.

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Zhalaqueni (5,429m)

Li Yuan, Zhang Xiao Hui and Zheng Chao Hui made the first official and winter ascent of the north (higher) summit of Zhalaqueni in the Baimang Xueshan, reaching the top on 27 January. The three spent three and a half days climbing directly up the east face by a new line they named Excavator (1,300m, WI4+ AI3+ M5). It is thought that over the last 10 years nine teams have unsuccessfully tried to reach this summit, though an unauthorized ascent has been reported.

Dayantianwo (5,220m)

First ascent of this granite pyramid in the Shuangqiao Valley by Dave Anderson (USA), Chaohui Zheng (China) and Szu-ting Yi (Taiwan). The three climbed the southwest face; Three Sheep Bring Prosperity (600m, 5.10 R/X 60 degrees).

Eagle Rock (ca 5,300m)

First ascent of the west-southwest face over two days by Marcos Costa (Brazil), solo. Invisible Hand (650m, 5.10+). Also first ascent of Peak 5,180m via west face, solo; Speed Indeed (580m, M3 5.8 70 degrees).

Eagle Rock (ca 5,300m)

New route on the southwest face, by Japanese Keita Kanehari and Kenji Onodera, joining the Chinese route in the upper section; Hagoroamo (ca 1,100m of climbing, 5.11). No bolts placed.

Shizi Peak (5,057m)

First ascent of this peak above the Shuangqiao by Yususke Kimura, Takaaki Morikami and Kengo Tagai via a 570m (13-pitch) face climb at 5.10c. No bolts.

Joey Shan (5,180m)

First ascent of this peak above the Changping Valley by Neil Kauffman, Cameron Kern, and Felix Parham via the south face and southwest ridge; Jianyfonya Dreaming (ca 500m, IV 5.9).

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