Web - Winter 2014

Nepal

Posted on: February 14, 2014


[Photo] Leridant/Wikimedia Commons

Jagdula Lek Traverse

From a base camp at 4,021m, Francois Damilano made a 20-hour round trip ascent of three peaks on the Jagdula Lek in the Kanjiroba Himal of West Nepal. He walked seven kilometers up glacier to the foot of the southwest face of Jagdula (5,761m), soloed this steep snow/ice face, with a tricky exit onto the summit ridge due to large cornices, then traversed the mushroomed crest northwest to two more virgin summits (5,783m and 5,750m), before descending to base.

Annapurna (8,091m)

New route on the south face by Ueli Steck, alone, in a 28-hour round trip from advanced base, 8-9 October.

This route was repeated 16-26 October by Stephane Benoist and Yannick Graziani (different start and a few variations through the headwall). Some sections of M5+/M6 reported above 7,000m, and M4/M5 at around 7,500m: see here.

Ghandarbha Chuli (6,248m)

First ascent of this peak in the Annapurna Sanctuary via the southwest face and west ridge by Cosmin Andron and Christina Pogacean (Romania). There were ca 1,900m of ascent above advanced base on snow, ice and mixed up to 75 degrees

Peak 6,505m

First ascent of this peak south of Annapurna III by Stephane Benoist and Yannick Graziani prior to their ascent of Annapurna I. The pair climbed the southwest couloir (700m, TD- with sections of 90 degrees).

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Gaurishankar South (7,010m), not to summit

Mathieu Detrie, Pierre Labbre, Mathieu Maynadier and Jerome Para made a new route on the steep and difficult south face. The team climbed to the top of the face at 6,800m but did not continue to Gauri (the south summit - 7,010m); Peine Prolongee (ED, WI5+ M5 A1).

Bamongo (6,400m)

Second ascent of this summit on the west ridge of Kang Nachugo via a new line on south face and west ridge by Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, Pema Tshering Sherpa, and Liu Yong (Daliu). The Road of Che Guevara had sections of 75 degrees and the usual precarious climbing along corniced crests. The ascent and descent were completed in 16 hours.

Kang Nachugo (6,737m), not to summit.

First ascent of the previously attempted southwest face, stopping on the south-southeast ridge at 6,640m, by Domen Kastilic and Santiago Padros. The 1,500m route, named Monsoon, was climbed in two days with sections of difficult snow and ice up to 75 degrees.

Likhu Chuli I (6,719m)

Ines Papert made the first ascent of this Rolwaling peak in mid-November. With Thomas Senf she climbed the north-northeast face over the east summit to make a third camp at 6,580m on the north ridge. Next day, Senf, fearing frostbite, remained, while Papert continued to the top alone (total height gained ca 1,900m, generally 70 degrees). Both climbers then descended the north ridge.

Pangbuk North (6,478m)

Scott Adamson and Christopher Wright made the first ascent of the previously attempted and now newly named Pangbuk North in the Lunag Group. The pair climbed directly up the northeast face: Purgation (1,100m, VI WI6+ M6) had two crux pitches of rotten ice and overhanging rock through the headwall.

Lunag West (ca 6,400m)

First ascent of this peak in the Lunag Group by Scott Adamson and Chris Wright prior to their ascent of Pangbuk North. The pair climbed the southeast face; Open Fire (1,000m, V WI5 M3).

Arakam Tse (5,904m)

First known ascent of this peak west of Cholatse. Silvestre Barrientos, Alfonso Gaston, Josep Maria Esquirol, and Ferran Rodriguez climbed the northeast face to create Tatopani (1,000m, VI/5+ M5+).

Lungaretse (5,870m, Google Earth), not to summit

First ascent of the southwest couloir on this peak north of Kyajo Ri by Camilo Lopez and Anna Pfaff, who terminated their ascent on the west ridge ca 150m below the summit. Colombian Direct (1,200m, TD, AI4 90 degrees)

Kyajo Ri (6,186m)

First ascent of the east face by Russian Vladimir Belousov and Ukrainian Marina Kopteva. The pair climbed the 1,150m face in five days to create the 28-pitch Stealing Beauty (6b A2 M6 AI3). Some bolts were placed.

Kusum Kanguru (6,367m)

First ascent of the southwest face, followed by a traverse of the mountain and descent to the north, by Vyacheslav Ivanov and Alexander Ruchkin: Falling into the Void (1,400m, TD/ED, WI5 M5). Caught in bad weather the climbers had to sit for three days on the wall and finally took around 11 days to summit. Several more were needed to escape the mountain, the last four days without food. Once in the Monjo valley, they were unable to find a proper exit and were eventually evacuated by helicopter.

Amphu I (6,740m)

First known ascent of this snow/ice peak west of Baruntse North via the southwest face and west ridge by Koreans An Chi-Young, Kim Young-Mi, and Oh Young-Hoon. Windy Couloir (1,300m, plus 500m glacier approach, TD, AI5) was delicate and poorly protected in the upper section.

Talung (7,349m)

Marek Holocek and Zdenek Hruby (Czech Republic) made the first ascent of the north face of Talung opposite Kangchenjunga. The pair climbed the ca 2,000m face in four and a half days, naming the line Thumba Party (WI6 M6+), then descended the west face in a further day and a half.

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