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Off Route and Out of Time – The Sharp End, Alpinist 56
Back in April 2016, Canadian alpinist Marc-Andre Leclerc described his solo of the Emperor Face of Mt. Robson: “My thoughts had reached a depth and clarity that I had never before experienced. The magic was real…. I was deeply content that I had not carried a watch with me to keep time…. I felt more…
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An interview with Alex Megos about the cross-disciplines of sport vs. trad climbing
Climbing phenom Alex Megos considers himself a “sport climber,” but that self-designation didn’t stop him from racking up to flash The Path, a 5.14 R trad route in Canada. Chris Kalman asks Megos what he thinks about the emphasis climbers put on various definitions of ascent, such as bouldering, sport climbing and trad climbing.
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Edges of Maps: The Mountain Stories of Kyle Dempster
At the time of his disappearance on the Ogre II, Kyle Dempster was one of the most promising mountain storytellers of his generation. Alpinist editor-in-chief Katie Ives looks back at some of work, and wonders about the writer he might have become.
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Grivel Lambda HMS Twin Gate: Comforting If You’re Not Wearing Gloves
The Grivel Lambda HMS Twin Gate is an unusual auto-locking carabiner that can be clipped with one hand and provides extra security on critical protection points. Just don’t try to use it with gloves.
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The Dynafit Yotei GTX Jacket: The Ideal Jacket for Ski-Mountaineers and Beyond
Mike Lewis awards the Dynafit Yotei GTX Jacket five stars for its light weight, versatility and thoughtful design. There was but one tiny flaw…
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Metolius Ultralight Master Cams: Mostly Solid, Sometimes Wobbly
Chris Van Leuven takes the Metolius Ultralight Master Cams on a cragging tour from New York to Colorado, and awards them four out of five stars.
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Metrophobia: A Thirst for Adventure
Doing a first ascent on a remote big wall was not enough for a team of three Swiss and two French men, who opted to sea kayak 170 kilometers with all their provisions just to reach the climb.
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DMM Apex Ice Tool Review: Heavy-duty and Ready to Rumble
The DMM Apex ice tools hold up to abuse and work well in a variety of terrain. Vermont climbing guide Tim Farr awards them four stars out of five.
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The DMM Pivot: Innovation Worth the Effort
The DMM Pivot shines as a simple, all-around assisted-braking belay device.
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Mammut Wall Rider Helmet Review
“Smaller rocks inevitably rained down. Just as the barrage ceased, a small rock whacked me in the head…. On the hard shell of the helmet, where the rock had hit, was a small ding. No cracks, no mess, just one clean dimple.” Drew Thayer reviews the Mammut Wall Rider Helmet.
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Light, Low Profile and Hard to Break In: Arc’teryx Acrux AR Mountaineering Boots
Chris Van Leuven reviews the Arc’teryx Acrux AR Mountaineering Boots, crafted to be the “lowest volume weatherproof double boot ever made,” the company says.
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