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What the New NPS Wilderness Climbing Policy Means for Climbers and Bolting
For decades, the future legality of fixed anchor use in Wilderness areas remained uncertain. Because land management agencies had no national guidance to assist local planners and managers, each local park and national forest was left to interpret the Wilderness Act–as it pertains to fixed anchors–on its own, and with wildly varying results. Last month…
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Desperate Country: Seven Days on the Fence
Over seven days, Jens Holsten and Chad Kellogg made their way across the toothy ridgeline of the Northern and Southern Pickets in the Cascade Mountains. The ten-mile linkup would be one of the longest routes in the Lower 48–had they completed it.
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AAC Publications Online Database: A Clean and (Mostly) Functional Upgrade
In all, the Club’s new publications database will serve as a magnificent improvement over its finicky and frustrating predecessor (though there are still a few deficiencies to navigate). Users will find more of what they’re looking for, and less of what they’re not–presented in clean, readable format.
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2013 Everest Report: A Curse, a Fight and the Aftermath
Modern Sherpa climbers have achieved some respect within the commercial guiding community–their status the result of evolving power structures through decades of Himalayan mountaineering. But as we look into the background of the April 27, 2013 outburst in Camp II on the south side of Everest, one discrepancy becomes apparent: the credit and wages Sherpas…
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Ulvetanna: The Last Great Climb
Filmmaker Alastair Lee gives you a preview of his 2013 film “The Last Great Climb” Featuring Leo Houlding, Sean “Stanley” Leary, Jason Pickles and Chris Rabone during their first ascent of the Northeast Ridge of Ulvetanna (5.12 A2, 1750m) in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica. Dreams become reality for this group of climbers as they ascend…
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The Moments Make The Journey
Mike Libecki, Ethan Pringle, Angie Payne and the 3 String Productions crew hit the road and waterways to the remote Kangertitivatsiaq Fjord in Greenland late last year. A habitual expedition climber, Libecki introduced remote wall climbing to Pringle, who spend most of the year at competitions and better-established sport climbing and bouldering areas.
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Free Climbing Liberty Cap: A Q&A with Cedar Wright
The Golden Age of climbing in Yosemite may have come and gone, but last week, Lucho Rivera and Cedar Wright proved there are still puzzles waiting to be unlocked by creative minds. I caught up with Wright between sips of coffee to hear more about what he calls “one of the best free climbs in…
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Death on Yosemite’s Muir Wall
Already through the three cruxes of the climb and just 600 feet from the top of El Capitan, Mason Robison did what we’ve all done before: pulled on a loose block. The rock fell, cutting Robison’s lead rope and sending him to his death. Chris Van Leuven eulogizes the 38-year-old stone mason, analyzes the accident…
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