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In Gold Blood
One year ago I sat idly and watched as my friends enjoyed a beautiful, warm winter day of cragging at the New River Gorge in West Virginia…. I reminisced of moments from weeks prior: the sound of our machete as it cut through thick vines; the unmistakable metallic squawk of the Bearded Bellbird; waterfalls; flowers;…
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C.A.M.P. Scorpio: The Half-Effective V-Threader
I bought the C.A.M.P. Scorpio V-Threader as a replacement for my C.A.M.P. Joker, a near-perfect v-threader that I dropped in the Alaska Range. Though both tools are light, simple and thread Abalakovs effectively, two differences make the Scorpio frustrating and ineffective at half its purpose.
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The Pursuit: Norway Ice Climbing
The Pursuit” chronicles two trips to the land of the midnight sun. “The movie is very much self shot,” says Aaron Mulkey, “I wanted to keep the sense of adventure in the film.”
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Trio Attempts Unrepeated Russian Route on the Eiger
Earlier this month, Neil Chelton, Ross Kain and Andy Kirkpatrick attempted the second ascent of the Russian Direttissima (EX: 5.10- 100 degrees, 1800m, Arkhipov-Dmitrienko-Malygin-Tsyganov, 2006) on the Eiger’s north face, and produced this video. They turned back in warm conditions on the A5 pitch…
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Davis and Richard Seek Forgotten Lines in Canyonlands National Park
An exciting video of Steph Davis and Mario Richard BASE jumping and then climbing a Steve Hong and Steve Carruthers’ route, Glad To Be A Trad (5.13a, 50m), in Canyonlands National Park, Utah. According to Desert Rock: Rock Climbing in the National Parks, written by Eric Bjornstad, the line climbs a right-facing dihedral to a…
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An Aerial View of Ice Climbing in Iceland’s West Fjord
Aerial footage of Dawn Glanc and Tim Emmett climbing in Iceland’s West Fjord gives us a new perspective on big ice routes. The wide-angle lens of the hovering aircraft shows the full context of the climb–the coast, turf houses, treeless landscape and snow-covered roads–not just the up-and-down views of typical climbing films. Within this setting,…
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Grivel Force Carbon: Carbon Sea Horses with a Price on Their Heads
While the design looks too strange to be functional, and the price tag steep, I have to admit the performance of this odd shape signals a notable advance in ice axe technology.
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50 Years on Everest
Each year, the Everest situation comes under greater scrutiny, with new stories of crowds and deaths and with new allegations of climbers lacking compassion for each other…. Each person’s choice of style is his or her own, a decision that has to do with highly personal variables. Regardless of how we feel about the use…
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Cairngorms: Multiple Falls on Stiff Ice
A combination of bulletproof, dinner-plating ice and poor technique give two climbers an exciting day at Coire an t-Sneachda in the Scottish Cairngorms. After taking two falls, they still finished the climb.
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64 Journey into Night
In October 2013, Ueli Steck astounded the international climbing community with a rapid solo on Annapurna’s South Face. But for him, the ascent was a kind of private, nocturnal pilgrimage, influenced by the recollection and example of departed heroes.
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