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My Climbing Life: Dreaming of the Unscheduled Escape
I don’t feel like working today. That doesn’t change the fact that I have to work, and I will work, soon… but I am going to indulge in a self-indulgent blog post before I get cracking.
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High Crimes, Chapter 11
The following story–an excerpt from the recently released nonfiction novel High Crimes–reveals the dark underbelly of high-altitude mountaineering: the loss of valuables, the loss of life.
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Marmot Snazette: Snazzy Functionality
Functional enough to withstand three weeks of high-altitude desert and mountain exploration, yet snazzy enough to sit down to tea with the King of Mustang, the Marmot Women’s Snazette performed royally on a recent trip across the Himalaya.
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Ski the 14ers
Chris Davenport has a dream: to ski all of Colorado’s 14,000-foot peaks in a single winter. Veteran mountaineer Lou Dawson agrees to help. But it took Dawson thirteen years to ski every 14er in Colorado. Davenport has just six months to bag all fifty-four peaks.
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Boulder: Sunny With a Chance of Spray
Being from Boulder, I understand the amount of spray that covers every surface in a 20-mile radius of that town, but it gets to be ridiculous when…
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World’s Worst Climbing Desecration?
Bolts are bad. Chipping is horrendous. What could be worse? Well–here’s an easy answer–really, really stupid people.
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JetBoil PCS: Radically Improved Fuel Efficiency
A principal function of a climber’s stove is to melt snow and ice, producing drinkable water. Hot soup, coffee and the occasional hot water bottle are perks, but on long trips fuel weight adds up. For Alaska I budget 48 ounces per day for a group of six–about 8 pounds of fuel each for a…
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New High-Altitude Expedition Weather Forecast Website
I just wanted to inform everyone about a new online weather forecast service at www.meteoexploration.com that provides reliable forecasts, information and advice for expeditions to remote, high-altitude locations.
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In Memoriam: Paul Dedi
Remembering Alpinist’s most acclaimed artist–Paul Dedi–the rare personality whose enthusiastic, witty, scrappy outlook instituted him as an offbeat bastion of the climbing and illustrating communities.
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First Guided Mid-Winter Ski Descent of Wyoming’s Grand Teton
Exum Guides Nat Patridge and Bill Liberatore skillfully led Jackson skier David DeFazio in the first guided mid-winter ski descent of Wyoming’s Grand Teton.
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PMI Spire 10.2mm Rope: Dry to the Core
Several years ago I humped a 92-pound pack full of the cheapest, heaviest climbing gear in the world uphill for several days in Wyoming’s Wind River Range. We’re talking old school: full-gate oval biners on everything; 11mm ropes; old, rigid-stem Friends; big hexes; everything horrid you can imagine. I seriously debated purchasing either a large…
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Parking Garage: Beyond the Limit
A spoof of the Discovery Channel Show, Everest: Beyond the Limit, created after an incident when the director realized he was more than a little out of breath after climbing only four flights of stairs to the top of a parking garage to fetch his car.
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The American Death Triangle and Other Practical Climbing Techniques
Learn to climb. Watch YouTube.
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