Chris Van Leuven
A Tribute to Fly’n Brian McCray
Chris Van Leuven calls up a few friends of his mentor Brian McCray to share memories and create an outline of the late climber’s character and legacy.
The Illusion of Control
Harvey Carter’s words become a catalyst for writer Chris Van Leuven’s quest to understand how climbing prepares us for the challenges of ordinary existence, the approach of old age and the unavoidability of loss.
‘Spicy All the Time’ on North Twin: A Photo Essay
Canadian Jon Walsh and American Josh Wharton completed the second ascent of the North Pillar (5.10d A2, 1500m) of Twins Tower on North Twin, a climb known for its horrible rock and technical nature on a face once described as “…dark, sheer and gloomy…like a bad dream.”
Speed Soloing the Chief: An Interview with Marc-Andre Leclerc
Earlier this month, twenty-year-old Squamish local Marc-Andre Leclerc solo-climbed Squamish’s Chief three times in 17 hours: the historic Grand Wall route, topping out on the wall via Upper Black Dyke; the 1970 Burton-Sutton aid line, Uncle Ben’s; and the classic University Wall. What Leclerc found difficult was not the technical grade, the speed or the endurance required, but making the switch among three techniques: free soloing, roped soloing and ropeless aid.
Death on Yosemite’s Muir Wall
Already through the three cruxes of the climb and just 600 feet from the top of El Capitan, Mason Robison did what we’ve all done before: pulled on a loose block. The rock fell, cutting Robison’s lead rope and sending him to his death. Chris Van Leuven eulogizes the 38-year-old stone mason, analyzes the accident and teaches us something about Yosemite Valley geology.
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