Picking the Plum Line on the Storm Creek Headwall
“…As Marc neared the station, he asked if all climbing in the Rockies was this good. I had to apologize for spoiling him on his first route.”
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Jon Walsh
Sierra Designs Convert 2: The Do-It-All Tent
I lived in the tent for about thirty days before Applebee’s granite slabs started wearing on the floor and the back corners’ poles punched right through the fabric. Those areas should be beefed up and handled with care. All in all, the tent saw a lot of abuse, but only the floor showed signs of damage.
Black Diamond Speed 30: Light and Comfy
The Speed 30 is an excellent choice for big outings that require all of your precious energy. The pack weighs 2 pounds, 3 ounces but is easy to knock down to a mere 20 ounces if you strip off its removable top pocket, hip belt, ultralight plastic framesheet and stay. It’s hydration compatible, and it adjusts to multiple torso lengths.
Exped Downmat 9: For a Solid Night’s Sleep
After a big session on the Torres in Patagonia last winter I came back to advanced base camp and found my body seizing up from raw abuse. I had never used an Exped Downmat 9 (distributed in North America by Outdoor Research), but I snagged one out of a friend’s tent and collapsed into a solid night’s sleep. As soon as I woke up I was jealous of my buddy’s pad and swore I’d never do another expedition without one. Since then, the Downmat 9 has allowed me to have sweet dreams while camped on the rock slabs in the Bugaboos, as well as some winter roadside bivies along the Icefields Parkway in the cold Canadian Rockies.
Granite Gear Alpine Vapor Pack: More All-purpose than Alpine Specific
Having shredded multiple ultralight packs while alpine climbing and cragging the past couple years, I’ve been looking for a new versatile and medium-sized assault pack for some time, and Granite Gear’s Alpine Vapor sounded like a good contender.
Mountain Hardwear UltraLamina 32: My #1 Sleeping Bag
Every summer I spend many nights camped in the mountains, and this year has been no different. Alpine weather and conditions in my favorite local stomping grounds, the Bugaboos and Canadian Rockies, have tendencies to change faster than you can see them coming, and–all too often–you’re shivering, getting snowed on or cowering from the latest thunderstorm. Fortunately, I was able to retreat on multiple occasions to the comforts of the Mountain Hardwear UltraLamina 32-degree synthetic sleeping bag.
Black Diamond nForce Ascenders: The Heavy-Duty Choice
The newly designed Black Diamond nForce ascenders were a crucial piece of gear for my main climbing project this summer. Using static and dynamic fixed lines from 8-11 millimeters, my partner and I spent about ten days working on a first ascent, free, on the east face of Snowpatch Spire in the Bugaboos. Although the face itself rises 2,000 feet, we ascended an estimated 3,000′ of fixed lines, equipping belay stations, scrubbing cracks, and rehearsing the crux pitches that, unfortunately, are still resisting our redpoint attempts.
Black Diamond C3 Camalots: Four-Season Approval
I was looking forward to getting a set of Black Diamond’s new C3 cams since I first saw the prototypes, and when I did, they were everything I expected them to be. They’ve been on my rack for a year now, and have been put to the test in just about every condition imaginable. From the misty summit of Torre Egger to a first ascent on Mt. Alberta; from greasy Squamish finger splitters to Bugaboo wall routes; and from overhanging quartzite trad routes at the back of Lake Louise to the mixed desperates of the Icefield Parkway, these cams have served me well. Despite the abuse, they’re still working like new. They’ve held my repeated whippers, inspired the confidence I need when it comes time to run it out, and have shaved precious grams off the weight I’ve carried.
