A mountain guide from Ortisei in the Dolomites (Val Gardena), I started
the season June 1 with an onsight ascent of Via attraverso il Pesce (the
famous “Fish Route”) on the south face of Marmolada (3342m). On July 2 I
enchained, solo, the Costantini-Apollonio (6c+), the Costantini-Ghedina
and the Alvera on the Tofana di Rozes (3225m), running up and
down the wall three times in five hours and thirty minutes (starting
from the Rifugio Dibona and returning to the same place). I free soloed
everything (including the two difficult roofs with slopers on the
“Costantini Apollonio”), without pulling on gear. The total climbing
length of the three routes is 2180 meters, and the highest grade is 6c+.
The last time I did the three routes had been about three years before.
The same day, I drove to my favorite sport-climbing crag at Pian
Schiavaneis on the Sella Group, where I managed Ciapa e Tira (7c+), also
At the end of July, again at Pian Schiavaneis, I climbed Linea Mortale
8b+/8c (this time with a rope) and on Piz Ciavazes (2828m) I free
climbed the Via Italia (8a) on the second try–the fourth and fastest
redpoint of this 200-meter long former aid climb over a four-meter roof.
On August 12 I onsighted Ottovolante (7a+) on the Torre Brunico (2494m;
Sella Group). The route is eleven pitches long (360m) and I climbed it
totally free without a rope, using a long sling to self-belay one move
(on bad slopers; totaling 1.5 meters). It was one of the best climbs
I’ve ever done.
On October 1 I climbed two routes on the Tofana di Rozes, Good-bye 99
and Da Pozzo Vecchio Pazzo, onsight in the same day. In total there were
twenty pitches up to 7c with mixed natural and bolted protection.
I did a few more interesting climbs in the warm autumn, including the
first free ascent of Via della Giraffa (7c+, 8 pitches) on Sass Ciampac (natural protection and some pitons) and Via Luciano da
Pozzo (7c+, 10 pitches) onsight on the Cima Scotoni (2874m; natural
protection and some bolts, loose rock). On October 28 I soloed the
six-pitch Via Rossi (6b) on the first Sella Tower (2533m) and then the
six-pitch Via Bertoldi (6b) on the same face in one hour. I did
everything free, without a rope. The second route was an onsight.
Manfred Stuffer, Ortisei, Italy