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2011 Mugs Stump Award Winners

Mugs Stump at 22,500′ on the West Face of Gasherbrum IV, Karakoram, Pakistan, in July 1983. [Photo] Michael Kennedy

Seven teams, listed below, have received the Mugs Stump Award for 2011. Recipients of the grant will attempt bold new objectives in Alaska, British Columbia, Kyrgyzstan, Pakistan and Russia, all in fast and clean alpine style.

Kyle Dempster, K7, Pakistan; with Kelly Cordes. A first ascent of the unclimbed southwest pillar (ca. 6200m), as well as a first ascent on the east face of 6934-meter K7 Main.

Colin Haley, Ogre II, Pakistan; with Bjorn-Eivind Artun. An alpine-style ascent of the unclimbed, un-attempted north face of 6960-meter Ogre II, a technical mixed route on this stunning alpine wall.

Dylan Johnson, Mt. Dickey, Alaska; with John Frieh and Roger Strong. An all-free, single push up the 5,000-foot northeast face of Mt. Dickey, the largest wall in the Ruth Gorge.

Damien Kelly, Mt. Waddington, British Columbia, Canada; with Jim Martinello. A winter ascent on the south face of this 4019-meter peak.

Mike Libecki, unnamed peak, Russia. A solo attempt on one of the northern-most big walls on the planet.

Steve Su, Pumari Chhish East, Pakistan; with Bruce Miller, Doug Chabot. An alpine-style first ascent up the 2400-meter south ridge to a beautiful, crown-like summit (ca. 6200m).

The prestigious award, sponsored by Black Diamond Equipment, Mountain Gear, Patagonia, W.L. Gore, and Alpinist Magazine, was created in 1993 in memory of Mugs Stump, one of North America’s most prolific and visionary climbers. Please visit for more information on the award, to apply and for trip reports from past recipients.

Read about last year’s Mugs Stump-funded expeditions in the November 24, 2010 Feature.