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Italian Lost on Shishapangma

Roby Piantoni (1977-2009), Italian climber and mountain guide. [Photo] Roby Piantoni collection

Italian climber and mountain guide Roby Piantoni, 32, fell to his death on Shishapangma (8013m) in Tibet Wednesday morning.

After retreating off new terrain on the mountain’s south face due to high winds, Piantoni and teammates Marco Astori and Yuri Parimbelli started up the Bonington Route on October 11. Swiss climbers Jean Troillet and Jean-Yves Frederiksen witnessed Piantoni slip at ca. 6700m while working with fixed ropes.

Piantoni was behind his two teammates on a presumed summit push. He fell more than 500 meters. His body has been recovered and will be returned to Italy.

A certified mountain guide from Bergamo, Piantoni had summited Everest and Gasherbrum II without oxygen and made attempts on Broad Peak and Manaslu. Three decades ago Piantoni’s father, Livio Piantoni, tragically perished in an avalanche while climbing in the Andes.