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Trango BallNutz: Clean Climbing Technology, Surpassed

High on El Cap a few years ago, I found myself 30 feet runout with ledge-fall potential breathing up my neck. A small fissure too small for any micro cam yet too parallel for any stopper split open the granite in front of my face. Placements like this made me wish I’d brought a set of slider nuts, though the need I had for that specialized protection is a rare moment in my life as a climber.

More Important Than the Summit

Mugs Stump Award recipient Kyle Dempster returns from Pakistan, not with a fresh routeline to draw up The Shining Wall of Gasherbrum IV (7925m), but with a story about choosing a friend over a summit.