In Gold Blood
One year ago I sat idly and watched as my friends enjoyed a beautiful, warm winter day of cragging at the New River Gorge in West Virginia…. I reminisced of moments from weeks prior: the sound of our machete as it cut through thick vines; the unmistakable metallic squawk of the Bearded Bellbird; waterfalls; flowers; heaven on earth; black flies; dazzling views; big walls; dirt in my eyes; ant bites; the sound of a breaking bone…
The Pursuit: Norway Ice Climbing
The Pursuit” chronicles two trips to the land of the midnight sun. “The movie is very much self shot,” says Aaron Mulkey, “I wanted to keep the sense of adventure in the film.”
C.A.M.P. Scorpio: The Half-Effective V-Threader
I bought the C.A.M.P. Scorpio V-Threader as a replacement for my C.A.M.P. Joker, a near-perfect v-threader that I dropped in the Alaska Range. Though both tools are light, simple and thread Abalakovs effectively, two differences make the Scorpio frustrating and ineffective at half its purpose.
Trio Attempts Unrepeated Russian Route on the Eiger
Earlier this month, Neil Chelton, Ross Kain and Andy Kirkpatrick attempted the second ascent of the Russian Direttissima (EX: 5.10- 100 degrees, 1800m, Arkhipov-Dmitrienko-Malygin-Tsyganov, 2006) on the Eiger’s north face, and produced this video. They turned back in warm conditions on the A5 pitch…
Davis and Richard Seek Forgotten Lines in Canyonlands National Park
An exciting video of Steph Davis and Mario Richard BASE jumping and then climbing a Steve Hong and Steve Carruthers’ route, Glad To Be A Trad (5.13a, 50m), in Canyonlands National Park, Utah. According to Desert Rock: Rock Climbing in the National Parks, written by Eric Bjornstad, the line climbs a right-facing dihedral to a thin crack on the upper face of the canyon wall.
