Exclusive: Arwa Tower
The video expose documenting the first ascent of Arwa Tower’s northeast face (VI M5 5.9 A3), Garhwal Himalaya, India. An Alpinist TV exclusive.
FiveTen Camp 4 Approach Shoes: Sturdy and Steadfast
My go-to approach shoe for three years has been the La Sportiva Exum Ridge. Sturdy yet nimble, stealthy enough for talus-hopping but rugged enough to endure all the missteps that result in abrasion, the shoe has held tough for me through three summers in the Tetons without blowing out or debilating the tread. It’s a tough benchmark to beat.
Omega Pacific Link Cams: Transformers to the Rescue!
More than any piece of rock gear I’ve seen advertised over the past few years, I wanted to hate these Omega Pacific Link Cams. All those moving parts and the inevitable dumbing-down of racking-up brought out the Luddite in me. And the cost–about $100 a pop–seemed prohibitive, and the weight…
Metolius Monster Rope: Worth the Weight
When you hear the name “Monster,” it may conjure visions of a huge, ugly beast. Or for all you movie buffs it might bring a horrifying vision of Charlize Theron and Christina Ricci. Scary. Luckily, when I hear the name “Monster,” I associate it with Metolius’ climbing rope line–burly and strong.
MSR 22″ Lightning Ascent Snowshoes: Strong Like Bull
Let’s begin with an understanding. If given the choice either to snowshoe or ski on an approach, I am going to pick skis every time. When guiding on Denali, however, I find that the combination of people’s varied ski skills, and the fact that we are schlepping huge loads up the Kahiltna Glacier, makes snowshoes the right choice.
Black Diamond C3 Camalots: Four-Season Approval
I was looking forward to getting a set of Black Diamond’s new C3 cams since I first saw the prototypes, and when I did, they were everything I expected them to be. They’ve been on my rack for a year now, and have been put to the test in just about every condition imaginable. From the misty summit of Torre Egger to a first ascent on Mt. Alberta; from greasy Squamish finger splitters to Bugaboo wall routes; and from overhanging quartzite trad routes at the back of Lake Louise to the mixed desperates of the Icefield Parkway, these cams have served me well. Despite the abuse, they’re still working like new. They’ve held my repeated whippers, inspired the confidence I need when it comes time to run it out, and have shaved precious grams off the weight I’ve carried.