Nearly twelve years after Alpinist’s first “Unclimbed” feature, Kelly Cordes reminds readers that there are still plenty of vertical mysteries. Damien Gildea, Kyle Dempster, Tamostu Nakamura, Mayan Smith-Gobat, Harish Kapadia, Pat Deavoll and Clint Helander share a few examples.
Stewart Green pens an elegy for Eric Bjornstad (1934–2014), author of Desert Rock, climber of sandstone spires and lover of open spaces.
Between February 2 and 3, Colin Haley and Marc-Andre Leclerc–despite a constant barrage of falling ice, which bloodied Leclerc’s knuckles–completed the first integral ascent of Cerro Torre’s north face. Haley notes their route’s six new pitches “are mostly covered in rime ice about 90 percent of the year, and under those conditions would be extremely slow and difficult [to climb].” Read the article by Chris Kalman here: http://bit.ly/1MuMj4h. [Photo] Colin Haley
Alpinist’s Digital Editor Chris Van Leuven sits down with legendary alpinist Reinhold Messner on February 2, 2015, to talk about rock climbing, high-altitude climbing, Messner’s castle and mountaineering museum, and his well-known climbing partner Peter Habeler.
Mary Williams considers climbing approaches and descents at Rocky Mountain National Park a necessary evil. For improved traction, she wears micro spikes to cross icy terrain. “I have used [them] with light hiking boots, my ice-climbing boots, running shoes, and even a few times over my ski boots,” she writes.
Described by the famous mountaineering writer David Roberts as a man “for whom no expedition was long enough,” Don Jensen spent years creating the perfect homemade gear for his epic excursions. Brad Rassler tells the story of the rare “Jensen Pack,” a relic of its creator’s intense climbing and quiet ingenuity.
Alpinist’s Digital Editor met with Stevie Haston at the 2015 Winter Outdoor Retailer show in Salt Lake City to talk about his love for the Utah desert. As a follow-up to the interview, we’re republishing Haston’s account of completing the Titan’s first free ascent, via the 1,000-foot Sundevil Chimney (5.13a).
Alpinist’s intern from last summer, Brad Rassler, goes on a quest to learn about fallen mountaineer, mathematician and pack designer Don Jensen.
Alpinists know that a tool capable of performing well in a variety of mediums and serving a variety of tasks is, indeed, quite pleasing. All the time. The Petzl Sum’Tec tools go a long way toward accomplishing that.
Rolando Garibotti, with help from Kelly Cordes, uncovers new evidence about where Cesare Maestri and Toni Egger were during Maestri’s claimed ascent of Cerro Torre in 1959. “Maestri’s photo of Toni Egger was in fact taken on the west face of Perfil de Indio, a small tower north of the Col Standhardt, between Agujas Standhardt and Aguja Bifida, on the west side of the massif, the opposite side that they claim to have been climbing on,” writes Garibotti. Read Garibotti’s story here: [Photo] Rolando Garibotti
