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Bob Craig: Remembering the 1953 K2 Expedition

Alpinist contributor Bob Craig passed away at age 90.
He’s legendary for his role in the 1953 K2 expedition and the attempt to rescue team member Art Gilkey. The following story was originally published in Alpinist 37.

Video: Fitz Traverse

Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold travel to Patagonia to find the limit of their capabilities, and “do the kind of stuff [they] see in Alpinist Magazine.”

Video: Aid Turns Free on Mt. Hooker

Inspired during a trip to Wyoming’s Wind River Range the previous season, David Allfrey, Nik Berry and Mason Earle returned to the Winds this August to free an A3 route on Mt. Hooker. Kyle Berkompas filmed their project.

Slideshow: Unclimbed Big Walls of Siberia

Inspired by a single photo, Australians Chris Fitzgerald and Chris Warner visit unclimbed big walls in remote northeastern Russia. Pulling out moss clumps and excavating gear placements with a nut tool, the team established six new routes and, with their camera, captured the experience.

Alpine-Style Attempts on the South Face of Nuptse

Two Canadian alpinists dodge large avalanches on the storied South Face of Nuptse. None of their several attempts extends beyond half height on the massive alpine wall, but–through careful decision-making–they live to tell the story.

Short Film: K6 West

Raphael Slawinski, Ian Welsted and Jesse Huey travel to Pakistan to climb K6 West. At the moment of their departure down the KKH, they learn of the massacre at Nanga Parbat base camp. Each is now faced with a decision. As Jesse returns home, Raphael and Ian continue with the trip and ultimately stand on the 7040m unclimbed summit.

To Know

In the final installment of our series of essays about climbing in the High Sierra’s Palisades group, Steve Porcella quests for the “remote, barren, trailless, treeless, oxygenless and peopleless,” where he finds out what it is to really know a mountain range.

Back(side) Pain

“Sixty-five Sierra routes that first summer; about a dozen the next, a fifth of them first ascents. Brutal-as-hell approaches with seventy-pound packs, decrepit knees and bad footwear. I blame Steve, but really, he and I were just the syringe plungers, and the Sierra Nevada was the heroin.”