Sean “Stanley” Leary: 1975-2014
A strong climber, bold BASE jumper, future father and good friend, remembered.
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Weekly Feature
Ulvetanna: In the Jaws of the Wolf
Between January 20 and February 3, a climbing team of five Norwegians and the British alpinist Andy Kirkpatrick climbed in capsule style for 27 pitches… Read More »Ulvetanna: In the Jaws of the Wolf
El Potrero Free Solo: A Q&A with Alex Honnold
Alex Honnold talks about the most technically demanding and involved big wall he’s yet soloed, and why it was so easy.
Oxford Climbers Find Mishaps, Tomfoolery and New Routes in Greenland
During a five-week climbing bonanza this summer, Oxford University Mountaineering Club members Tom Codrington, Jacob Cook, Ian Faulkner and Peter Hill sailed among the granite… Read More »Oxford Climbers Find Mishaps, Tomfoolery and New Routes in Greenland
Yosemite’s Young Pup: Cheyne Lempe Talks About His Salathe Wall Solo
Though he had climbed El Capitan in a day–three times–twenty-two-year-old Cheyne Lempe spent the days leading up to his solo attempt on the Salathe Wall… Read More »Yosemite’s Young Pup: Cheyne Lempe Talks About His Salathe Wall Solo
Slildeshow: Wiping El Cap’s Nose
Two climbers recently rappelled the upper reaches of El Capitan to conduct a traditional “Nose Wipe.” They hauled out garbage by the bag-full, but an… Read More »Slildeshow: Wiping El Cap’s Nose
Diarrhea and Sunstroke in the Kokshaal-Too
“Sean has bad case of diarrhea, Nico has bit of a sunstroke and is vomiting, Stephane has bad headache and Evrard has sore back. So… Read More »Diarrhea and Sunstroke in the Kokshaal-Too
Kinder’s Blunder and the Need to Cultivate our Vertical Gardens
When I was a new teenage climber, I had to talk my parents gently through the mechanics of leading, following and rappelling, but it was… Read More »Kinder’s Blunder and the Need to Cultivate our Vertical Gardens
Wyoming Outlaw: WI5 M-Thought Provoking
Early this season, climbers Shawn Gregory, Chris Guyer and the intrepid Aaron Mulkey sniffed around cowboy country for climbable ice smears. Along the way, an… Read More »Wyoming Outlaw: WI5 M-Thought Provoking
‘Spicy All the Time’ on North Twin: A Photo Essay
Canadian Jon Walsh and American Josh Wharton completed the second ascent of the North Pillar (5.10d A2, 1500m) of Twins Tower on North Twin, a… Read More »‘Spicy All the Time’ on North Twin: A Photo Essay
Fear or Aspiration: The Future of Climbing in the Karakoram?
In the aftermath of the Nanga Parbat attack, Swedish alpinist and conflict dynamics analyst David Falt looks at some of the potential risks and possibilities… Read More »Fear or Aspiration: The Future of Climbing in the Karakoram?
Squamish Series: The Early Days
The late 1950s and early 1960s marked the arrival of Highway 99 in that small logging town, and a shift in climbers’ interest from peaks… Read More »Squamish Series: The Early Days