[Photo] Courtesy of Krister Jonson
Denny Calvo and I traveled to Kugelhorn in the Northern part of Norway, approximately 100 kilometers south of Narvik.
We found a really nice dihedral system running up the center of the west wall, which is the steepest section. Five well protected pitches took us to the summit, in a really bad rainstorm!
The climb starts upon the saddle of “The Worlds Sva” which is a obvious feature easily seen from Highway E6, about 2km north from the ferry. The dihedral system is the most spectacular part of the wall. Approach from the road took us about half an hour.
We called the new route “Solskensdiedret”, or “The Sunny Shine Dihedral” and graded it UIAA 7/7+ [ca. 5.11 -Ed.]
The return…is a story by it self! It is not easy, so be happy if you don’t have to do it in bad weather!
[Photo] Courtesy of Krister Jonson