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Tomaz Humar: What’s Up, Alpinist?
This is the first time I’ve see Alpinist late to post news. An outstanding climb was done by Tomaz over a week ago.
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HOW ARE THESE PEOPLE PAID TO WRITE ABOUT CLIMBING?
“They should have signs and stuff and trash cans outside,” said Pham, who climbs regularly in the safety of a San Francisco gym. “I don’t think they even clean your rocks off for you out there.”
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TRIP REPORT: NEW ROUTE IN NORWAY’S EFJORD AREA
The climb starts upon the saddle of “The Worlds Sva” which is a obvious feature easily seen from Highway E6, about 2km north from the ferry. The dihedral system is the most spectacular part of the wall. Approach from the road took us about half an hour.
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BOLIVIA YIELDS NEW ROCK ROUTES FOR IMPERIAL COLLEGE EXPEDITION
Friday 13 July It takes an entire day for Hal and Virgil to traverse 8m in an attempt to find a line of weakness the overhanging section on the big wall. Virgil Places a bolt by hand in order to retreat from this position and leave a solid anchor to ascend to the next day.…
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Therm-a-Rest Toughskin: Rugged in the Dire and Amorous
There may be other inflatable sleeping pads out there, but you know you’ve got a corner on the market when your brand name becomes the vernacular for your niche. For years, however, I avoided Therm-a-Rests, preferring the closed-cell pads that, while they might not offer quite the same insulation and comfort as an inflatable pad,…
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RIDICULOUS POLITICAL RESPONSES TO CLIMBING
I’m recently a Wyoming Girl, but having spent a few years in the unshorn-leg-hair land of Oregon, this still feels like it hits close to home. The following is excerpted from a larger piece that appeared in the Northwest Mountaineering Journal about last December’s well publicized–or completely over-hyped–series of fatalities on Mt. Hood.
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TRIP REPORT: CHILEAN TEAM CLIMBS POSSIBLE NEW LINE ON CHACRARAJU’S SOUTH FACE
On July 22nd we reckoned the approach to the base of the South face and assessed the real magnitude of the challenge. The wall only grew taller and more vertical as we came closer. We roped up in the middle of the glacier to cross some crevasses, checked out the start of the climb and…
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Three Women, a Mountain and a Mosque
Three women tackle a new 950-meter free rock line in the Karakorum, where they discover that friendship and solidarity are the keys to success and survival.
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Maxim Apogee 9.1 70m Rope: Stands Up to Abuse
I had initially stayed away from using longer ropes due to their weight and bulk. The Apogee, at 9.1mm, dispenses with this concern, but its slim profile gave me doubts about its durability. After significant testing on summer alpine rock routes in the Tetons, alpine climbing in the Bugaboos and the establishment of new multi-pitch…
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IF I WERE BAT-HOOKING UP SOME NASTY A5…
Stirring the pot of ethical debates, Chris Kalous–who apparently has some sort of climbing credentials, though I know not where–gives a nice seven minute speech about the inaccurate and self aggrandizing nature of aid ratings.
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Everest Update: From the Olympics to Yak Difficulties
I am just back from my follow up visit to China Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA) in Lhasa, Tibet. On our agenda was the following issues: the impact of the Olympic expedition on other climbers, theft and misconduct on the mountain and the difficulty of managing the yaks.
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Obsession and Ingenuity, Part II: The Old Man and the Ice Tower
The fixtures of Silver Gulch–a bar and microbrewery in Fox, Alaska–had something to talk about: an 152-foot ice blob rising out of the flattest part of Alaska. What they didn’t know: The Ghost Raven Ice Tower was a proving ground for the precocious.
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