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Wild Country Infinity Sprint 8.4 60m Double Rope: Infinitely Durable?
Over the summer I tested the Sprint double rope (8.4mm, 60m), a member of the new Infinity line from Wild Country. While the company is a relatively new rope manufacturer, they’ve got the time-tested reputation to back up their products, and I was not disappointed. The rope, weighing in at 64 grams/meter, has a UIAA…
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KILTED ICE CLIMBERS IN MINNESOTA
While reading the weekly feature about Ontario ice, I noticed the sole picture of Minnesota ice climbing. I felt it necessary to add to the discussion by indicating that Nightfall (WI4+, 60m), Minnesota’s longest natural ice fall, is also the site of the Gentleman’s Occasional. This almost annual event is, likely, the most important gathering…
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Stolby Style: Siberian Free Soloing
Jonathan Thesenga and Brittany Griffith, the first American rock climbers to climb at Stolby, Siberia, share the madness of the local ethic–family free soloing en masse.
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WORST. CLIMBING. VIDEO. EVER.
I wanted to like this because I love the Huber brothers. If I could climb 5.14 in leather pants, I would. Actually, if I could climb 5.14, I would do it in leather pants to prove a point. Much like the Hubers. Alex is a physicist, too, just to spice things up. In any event…
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Petzl e+lite: For Emergencies and Every Day
The luggage gods are not kind. Multiple times, when traveling internationally, I’ve had to wait days for my luggage to catch up with me. I’m starting to get used to it–but it becomes problematic when I’m scheduled to guide clients and my gear is in airline purgatory. This was the case at the outset of…
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SMOKING ON EVEREST IS COOL, OR WAS IN THE 1920S
Captain GJ Finch, who took part in the Mount Everest expedition, speaking at a meeting of the Royal Geographical Society, London, last evening on the equipment for high climbing, testified to the comfort of cigarette smoking at very high altitude. He said that he and two other members of the expedition camped at 25,000ft for…
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Obsession and Ingenuity, Part I: Michigan
The three months (if you’re lucky) of joy for most Midwestern ice climbers are filled with long, sleepless weekend drives to Ontario, Northern Minnesota and Michigan’s Upper Peninsula… But what about lunch breaks?
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THE “RUSSIAN WAY” IS AN AGENT OF DEATH TO MODERN ALPINISM
K2’s mighty West Face is one of the greatest big mountain walls in the world and ripe for a beautiful alpine style ascent. This past summer a large, 18-person team of Russians converged upon Concordia intent on forcing a direct line up the steepest part of the face by any means necessary. Like they have…
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Alpinist Seeks Film Festival Producer
Alpinist seeks a producer for The Alpinist Film Festival. Dynamic and challenging part-time position helps plan, organize and execute annual film festival for Alpinist Magazine. Applicant must be self-reliant, resourceful, organized, experienced in event planning and proficient in budgets and fundraising.
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CHOMOLHARI FIRST ASCENT HISTORY REVISITED
I have not yet had time to read through Alpinist 21 properly, but I noticed a picture caption on Page 82 that gives the impression that the first ascent of Chomolhari (7326m) was in 1996. The record of ascents of Chomolhari is a bit confused, and few people are aware of the significance of the…
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SCOTS BRING INDOOR ICE CLIMBING TO VERMONT
So, Mayor Kiss, of Burlington, Vermont, USA, decides that the 86 percent of tax payers that voted to change the empty, decommissioned power plant into a park were wrong. Mayor Kiss decides that turning the building and the grounds it stands on into a commercial facility is more financially intelligent for the city. Why is…
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Exclusive: Patagonian Psyche
Andy Kirkpatrick and Ian Parnell get stormed off Patagonia’s Cerro Standhardt. This clip from PSYCHE is available only on Alpinist TV.
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An Answer Regarding Mt. Mahindra
In the October 1 NewsWire there was some discussion about Mt. Mahindra. Number three above is the ascent line that was made by Kopold and Stefansky in 2003, which obviously shows that they did not make it to the top of the peak. This picture was published in the magazine Jamesak.
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New Iapetus Photos
Here is the other side of Iapetus, one of Saturn’s moons. If you go to saturn.jpl.nasa.gov and ciclops.org, you can check out hi-res images (so you can zoom in to the point where you can route find!) and get more information.
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