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Kilian Jornet completes two fast and light ascents of Everest in one week
Spanish climber and ultra-runner Kilian Jornet completed two rapid Everest ascents without using fixed ropes or bottled oxygen on the North Col route in one week, on May 21 and 27. He pushed on through illness and windy weather, summiting in 17 hours and returning to advanced base camp in 28:30 on his fastest attempt.…
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Pulled Apart
In this Full Value story from Alpinist 58, Rick Accomazzo tells the story of a mission he participated in as a member of Yosemite Search and Rescue in July 1975 that has haunted him ever since–its memory compounded by the loss of his friend and climbing partner Tobin Sorenson in 1980. Illustrations by Andreas Schmidt.
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Black Diamond Access Hoody: Simple, warm and compact
The Black Diamond Access Hoody has kept Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz comfy in a variety of temperatures and conditions since January. He’s happy with the jacket except that the zipper started having trouble after one month of light use.
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#alpinistcommunityproject: Cosmin Andron and Cristina Pogacean
From November 13-19, Cosmin Andron and Cristina Pogacean shared some photos and stories with the #alpinistcommunityproject. They are two Romanian alpinists. Cosmin is a former philosophy professor turned full-time mountain guide while Cristina, the saner half of the family, is a civil engineer who also moonlights as a certified mountain guide.
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Bree Loewen describes ‘a job for a human, not a hero’ in ‘Found: A Life in Mountain Rescue’
Bree Loewen’s brilliant memoir, Found: A Life in Mountain Rescue, is a compelling tale of life and death, motherhood and wilderness, rescue and recovery–and a must-read for anyone who travels in the backcountry.
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Zinke’s interim report recommends reducing Bears Ears National Monument
Interior Secretary Ryan Zinke’s interim report on Bears Ears National Monument recommends “revising” or reducing the monument’s boundaries while keeping some areas protected. On April 26, President Donald Trump ordered Zinke to review all national monuments designated since 1996 and issue a final report by late August.
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Tommy Caldwell is honest and vulnerable in his autobiography ‘The Push’
Tommy Caldwell’s autobiography, The Push, is as daring as his multitude of world-class climbing accomplishments, which range from 5.14 and 5.15 sport routes around the world, and towering free ascents on Yosemite’s El Capitan–including the first free ascent of the Dawn Wall (VI 5.14d) in January 2015 with Kevin Jorgeson–to the first completion of the…
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The world gasps in the aftermath of Alex Honnold’s free solo of El Capitan’s Freerider (5.13a, 3,000′)
Alex Honnold became the first person to free solo El Capitan via the Freerider route (VI 5.13a, 3,000′) on June 3, which is indisputably a landmark in the history of climbing. Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz recounts climbing with Honnold before he became famous and interviews him about scaling El Cap without a rope.
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Researchers, activists and climbers respond to Trump’s withdrawal from Climate Accord
“I would like to see the climbing community speak about their experiences of witnessing climate change, and their love for the mountains with anyone and everyone…. I would like them to educate us, the public,” explains climate change researcher and anthropologist Pasang Yangjee Sherpa. In this roundtable interview, climate researchers and mountaineers Pasang Yangjee Sherpa,…
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Legacy Restoration Project begets another high-end route: Yosemite’s Misty Wall (5.13)
The Legacy Restoration Project is an emerging program to clean up forgotten routes as a way to remind climbers of the potential that still lies beyond the obvious classics. The program has resulted in four new high-end free climbs in Yosemite Valley since last September, starting with the West Face of the Sentinel. The most…
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Outdoor Retailer winter trade show is merging with SIA Snow Show in Denver
Emerald Expositions–the company that owns Outdoor Retailer–announced May 24 that it has acquired the SnowSports Industries America (SIA) Snow Show and that the winter OR trade show will now be held in conjunction with the SIA show in Denver in January. This announcement is an indication that OR is likely to leave Salt Lake City…
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Marek Raganowicz solos two new routes on the Ship’s Prow in Baffin Island
Though he intended to do some solo climbing, Marek Raganowicz hadn’t planned on spending the entire six weeks alone among the polar bears on Baffin Island between mid-March and May, but that’s what happened after his partner, Marcin Tomaszewski, had some problems with light frostbite on his toes and had to leave a couple weeks…
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Quinn Brett makes probable first female free ascent of Spaceshot (5.13a) in Zion
Quinn Brett made what is likely the first female free ascent of Spaceshot (IV 5.13a, 9 pitches) in Zion National Park, Utah, on May 1-2, leading all the pitches with Max Barlerin in support.
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K’e yil yal tx’i: Saying Something
In this Climbing Life story from Alpinist 58, Leslie Hsu Oh takes her kids climbing and observes them learning lessons that took her a lifetime to learn. After Oh lost her birth mother and brother to cancer, her adoptive mother had encouraged her to seek a sense of kinship in the mountains.
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Colin Haley solos North Buttress of Begguya (Mt. Hunter) round-trip in 17 hours
Colin Haley completed one of his longstanding projects on May 12 with the first solo ascent of the North Buttress of Begguya (Mt. Hunter) which he climbed round-trip from base camp in 17 hours, 13 minutes. He’d soloed the North Buttress before but never summited, coming as close as 100 meters to the top.
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One Flashy Hoody: Ortovox Merino Fleece Light
Chris Van Leuven wears hoodies often and has tested his share of them. His latest review awards the Ortovox Merino Fleece Light Hoody four stars. Van Leuven reports that the Ortovox is lighter than many other tops, but in terms of loft and warmth it’s similar to heavier ones.
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Climber delegation lobbies Congress on behalf of public lands
Approximately 50 climbers lobbied Capitol Hill in Washington, DC, as part of the Access Fund and American Alpine Club’s Climb the Hill event on May 11. Those in attendance included Quinn Brett, Tommy Caldwell, Peter Croft, Sasha DiGiulian, Caroline Gleich, Alex Honnold, Shelma Jun, Kai Lightner, Mikhail Martin and Libby Sauter. Virginia Senator and former…
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NW Alpine Eyebright Jacket: Burly and ultralight
Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz tested the NW Alpine Eyebright ultralight shell jacket, one of the lightest and most durable in its class because of its Dyneema construction. The jacket was structurally and functionally sound but it left some things to be desired when considering the hefty price tag.
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Interior Secretary arrives in Utah for tour of national monuments under review
US Interior Secretary Ryan Zinke’s visit to Utah is underway as he begins his review of national monuments following President Donald Trump’s recent executive order. Bears Ears and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monuments are his first tours on a list that now includes 28 monuments.
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The ‘Gauntlet’: Two Americans make first ascent of Huntington’s Complete South Ridge
Clint Helander and Jess Roskelley stepped off the plane on Alaska’s Tokositna Glacier April 18 and immediately committed to Mt. Huntington’s South Ridge, which had never been climbed in its entirety until they summited April 23. The ridge is long and extremely committing because of hazards that make retreat a dangerous option. A storm pinned…
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American Alpine Club presents its second annual Excellence in Climbing Awards
Tickets are now available for the American Alpine Club’s second annual Excellence in Climbing Awards celebration in Denver on June 3. The event will honor several climbers for their contributions to social and environmental causes around the world. In addition, a Cutting Edge Award will recognize an ascent performed in upstanding style. Scott Bennett and…
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Ueli Steck found dead after an apparent fall on Nuptse while acclimatizing
Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck was found dead on April 30 near Camp 2 on Mt. Everest (8848m) after he apparently fell while climbing 7861-meter Nuptse to acclimatize for a linkup of Everest’s Hornbein Route with Lohtse (8516m).
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Arc’teryx Procline: One boot for skiing and ice climbing
An ice climbing boot that handles skis as well? Jess Roskelley tested the Arc’teryx Procline Carbon Lite boots and enjoyed their versatility for approaching and climbing routes in the snowy backcountry. He used the boots on mixed pitches and WI 6, and cruised out in full control of his skis on the way down–no more…
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