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  • 2007: Open

    Russian alpinist Sergey Kofanov recounts his 2007 encounter with the “cosmic cold” shoulder of Jannu, when he and Valery Babanov made the first ascent of the West Pillar in alpine style.

  • Poetry Feature: Chip Brown

    In an Alpinist exclusive poetry feature, award-winning outdoor writer Chip Brown imagines the landscape of the Yukon within the sounds of the city, and in an interview he reflects on the connection between climbing and poetry.

  • 1976-2016: Jannu Remembrances

    The great Japanese mountaineer Naoe Sakashita looks back on the first complete ascent of the north face of Jannu / Kumbhakarna to the summit of the 7710-meter Himalayan peak, and on his friendship with teammate Nobu-yuki Ogawa.

  • Warm, durable and breathable: Black Diamond First Light Hoody

    The Black Diamond First Light Hoody does its job but it’s bulky for climbing and some features could be improved. Chris Van Leuven gives it three stars.

  • 1975: New Zealand Expedition Jannu North Face

    In 1975 New Zealand climber Graeme Dingle joined an expedition to the legendary Wall of Shadows on Jannu / Kumbhakarna, a 7710-meter peak in Nepal. High on the mountain, he looked up at an immense ice formation that seemed about to collapse. “You can’t tell me those cliffs are safe,” he said. “This is as…

  • Alpinist 57 Mountain Profile Essays | Jannu

    Read all four essays by Graeme Dingle, Naoe Sakashita, Sergey Kofanov and Dawa Sherpa from our Mountain Profile of Jannu / Kumbhakarna in Alpinist 57–Spring 2017.

  • Roland Pauligk (1938-2017): The man who changed climbing with his brass micronuts

    Ross Taylor grew up as a family friend of Roland Pauligk, the man who created the brass “RP” micronuts that revolutionized rock climbing in the 1970s and are still essential gear at many cliffs today. Taylor recounts an influential life well lived since Pauligk died of cancer January 22.

  • The Dynafit Yotei GTX Pant sets a new standard for getting around in the mountains

    The Dynafit Yotei GTX Pants proved to be a versatile piece of outerwear for Mike Lewis, an AMGA-certified alpine guide, who reports that the pants work well for ski-touring and ice climbing while accommodating comfortable space for avalanche beacons and field books. The pants became his go-to option after testing them in Chile, Wyoming’s Grand…

  • Marek Raganowicz completes the first winter solo of a route on the Troll Wall

    Polish climber Marek Raganowicz spent 16 days soloing Suser gjennom Harryland (VI 5.10b A3, 650m) on Norway’s Troll Wall from January 11 to 26. The route finishes far short of the true summit, but the ascent is one of the best solo efforts on the Troll in winter so far.

  • First round of female recipients announced for Grit & Rock First Ascent Expedition Award

    The inaugural First Ascent Expedition Award is giving grants to four teams across three categories. The Grit and Rock Foundation created the award last September to “encourage female participation in pioneering alpine ascents and to further the understanding and exploration of the unclimbed peaks.”

  • An Interview with David Roberts

    Now facing Stage IV throat cancer, David Roberts reflects on his climbing and writing careers in this interview with Michael Wejchert. Roberts is one of the most prolific American climbing authors and has a climbing resume to match his list of titles.

  • Arc’teryx, Ibex and Polartec join Patagonia’s movement to pressure Utah over Bears Ears

    Arc’teryx, Ibex and Polartec join Patagonia to oppose Utah’s efforts to rescind Bears Ears National Monument. The tactics range from boycotting the Salt Lake City location of the Outdoor Retailer trade show and making financial donations to conservation efforts, to using the trade show as an opportunity to lobby Utah legislators.

  • Patagonia withdraws from Outdoor Retailer shows in Utah over threats to Bears Ears

    On February 3, Utah legislators moved to rescind Bears Ears National Monument. In response, Patagonia announced the company will stop attending the Outdoor Retailer trade shows hosted twice a year in Salt Lake City, Utah, but the company has no further plans to pull its business from Utah at this time.

  • Arc’teryx Alpha SV hard-shell jacket: A haven from the worst storms

    The Arc’teryx Alpha SV Jacket is a specialized piece of clothing built for the harshest climbing situations. Drew Thayer put it to the test on a month-long expedition in Alaska and awarded it five stars.

  • On the Nose with Hans Florine and Jayme Moye

    On the Nose chronicles Hans Florine’s “lifelong obsession” with the most iconic route on El Capitan. Herein, we interview Florine and co-author Jayme Moye about their new book documenting Florine’s pursuit of the Nose speed record.

  • Bears Ears, federal lands and the new US administration

    Now that President Donald Trump is in office, and a new, Republican majority controls both the U.S. House and Senate, discussions about federal land management and resource extraction have intensified. This article briefly summarizes the current actions that are taking place and the political landscape, especially as it pertains to the new Bears Ears National…

  • Our Eiger Drama

    In a letter to the editor, longtime Alpinist reader Tad Welch examines our looming environmental crisis from the perspective of a roped team braving the odds on the Eiger Nordwand. He writes, “As we enter what may be one of the darkest times of our country’s history, I feel an obligation to subject my most…

  • A slim workhorse: Edelrid Topaz Pro Dry CT 9.2mm rope

    The 9.2mm Edelrid Topaz Pro Dry CT is a skinny rope that handles like a mid-weight. Chris Van Leuven has put thin cords to the test before, and he was mostly pleased with this one, awarding it four stars.

  • Indian Mountaineering Foundation lowers 2017 permit fees to promote select peaks

    The Indian Mountaineering Foundation offers reduced permit fees on 81 select mountains for the 2017 season. The goal is to encourage foreign expeditions and disperse traffic from some of the most popular areas.

  • The Glass Mountain: A Fable

    During the nineteenth century, Jim Bridger was well known for tall tales about the ranges of the American West. Herein, the modern climbing writer Jeff Long retells Bridger’s attempt on “Glass Mountain,” examining the aspirations and consequences of frontier mythology.

  • Jeff Long: The Story Behind “The Glass Mountain”

    An interview with climber and New York Times best-selling author Jeff Long on his story “The Glass Mountain,” published in Alpinist 54.

  • Alpine Style: Two Austrians make the first ascent of Gimmigela East’s North Face

    When Hansjorg Auer and Alex Blumel couldn’t get a permit for their original objective last November they were pointed to Gimmigela East (7005m). It turned out to be a great choice, as they became the first people to approach the mountain from the northern side and climb its previously untouched North Face (M4, 85-degree ice,…

  • The Precarious World–The Sharp End, Alpinist 57

    At a time when the word precarious is used increasingly to describe many aspects of our current existence, Katie Ives reflects on the differences between confronting risk in the mountains and responding to much vaster political and ecological uncertainties in the US and the world. “I think now, especially with climate change, we are without…

  • La Sportiva TX2: Blurring the line between climbing and approach shoes

    The La Sportiva TX2 approach shoes shine brightly on fast-and-light rock missions when you need to carry your approach shoes with you on the climb. Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz awards them five stars.