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Diving into the Unknown
Four friends spend 10 days doing first ascents in the Purcell Wilderness, British Columbia, and for some it was their first time doing a first ascent.
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Talking Environmentalism at the Summer Outdoor Retailer 2016
At the 2016 Summer Outdoor Retailer trade show, Erin Monahan wonders how far leaders in the outdoor gear industry are really willing to take their commitment to the environment.
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Two Americans climb three new routes in Nepal’s Rolwaling Valley
Americans Nik Mirhashemi and Mark Pugliese made three probable first ascents on three peaks in Nepal’s Rolwaling Valley on their first trip to the Himalaya last autumn.
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Small Australian-Chinese team explores new ground in Tibet
A team of five friends self-fund an expedition to a rarely visited area of Tibet and climb a previously unnamed 5678-meter peak they named Xialongrezha. They climbed the west face and called their route Standing Room Only (Russian Alpine Grade 5a, Scottish IV, M4, 650m).
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Tom Ballard finishes the year with back-to-back rope-solo ascents
Tom Ballard closes out the year in the Dolomites with a rope-solo first ascent of Dust in the Wind (M8, 100m) and a casual multiday rope solo of the Gogna Route (5.10, 800m) on Marmolada Punta Rocca (3309m), which he finished on New Years Eve.
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Huber, Schaeli and Siegrist complete the second ascent of Eiger’s Metanoia
Thomas Huber, Roger Schaeli and Stephan Siegrist complete the second ascent of Metanoia (VII 5.10 M6 A4, 1800m) on the Eiger North Face (3970m), more than 25 years after Jeff Lowe established the legendary route that became a turning point in his life.
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First ascent of ‘Titanic’ adds another chapter to the Eiger North Face
Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewksi have only climbed together three times, but all those climbs have been first ascents. They added another hard new route to the Eiger North Face in December –Titanic–and Ballard continued his legacy with the mountain that his mother, Alison Hargreaves, had climbed while she was pregnant with him.
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Lives of the Volcano Poets
The author climbs after the volcano poets. This piece originally appeared in Alpinist 40.
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Axe of Contrition
Stevenson contemplates the axe of God in this Climbing Life story from Alpinist 20.
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After the Expedition
In this work of short fiction from Alpinist 18, Stevenson weaves a tale about a driftless climbing guide balancing his successes “against an unwritten page of his climbing resume, against the darkness.”
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VOORMI River Run Hoodie: A featherweight top for all seasons
The VOORMI River Run Hoodie keeps Chris Van Leuven comfy in all kinds of conditions, from rainy trails and toothy offwidths to social scenes. He awards it five stars.
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#alpinistcommunityproject 2016
This week, we’re sharing an assortment of social media posts from the Alpinist Community Project in 2016. In this collection we’re resharing photos from Bryce Brown, James Rushforth, Michael Kennedy, Abhijeet Singh, Jeremy Joseph, Jenny Abegg and Forest Woodward, Tamotsu Nakamura and Caroline Treadway.
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The Adventure Gap and Narratives of Inclusion: James Edward Mills talks about why the face of outdoor adventure must change
Brad Rassler interviews author James Edward Mills about current events and the disparity of opportunities for minorities to try outdoor activities like climbing.
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Valandre Shocking Blue Neo Sleeping Bag: High-performance and complicated
Drew Thayer describes the Valandre Shocking Blue Neo Sleeping Bag as “the Cadillac” of cold-weather sleeping bags. But all the added features increase the weight and the price compared to other cold-weather bags. Four stars.
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Poetry Feature: Experiencing Ice
In this poetry feature, writer and adventurer Manasseh Franklin shares work from Experiencing Ice, a series of images and poems about glaciers and “vastness to ponder.”
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Beyond the Guide: White Mountains, New Hampshire
For years, Alan Cattabriga has roamed the White Mountains of New Hampshire, exploring the spaces between the contour lines of maps and creating long, arabesque-like enchainments of classic ice routes. Herein, a tale from one of the East Coast’s most imaginative wanderers.
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The Country of Winter: Nitassinan, Quebec
Pete Takeda ventures into some of the vast realms of ice, and the countries within countries of Nitassinan and northeastern Quebec.
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The CiloGear 30:30 backpack gets it done on alpine missions
Yosemite Search and Rescue member Josh Huckaby puts the CiloGear 30:30 backpack to the test and is stoked with the product. He plans to use it in Patagonia this January. Five stars!
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Nakamura unveils hidden mountains of southern Tibet
Eighty-two-year-old Japanese mountaineer Tamotsu “Tom” Nakamura has been exploring and documenting the seldom-visited regions of Tibet for the last 25 years. In this feature he shares photographs of southern Tibet’s “hidden” mountains.
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And the 2017 Mugs Stump Winners Are…
The 2017 Mugs Stump recipients aim to tackle: the East Face of Golgotha (Alaska); the West Face of Xanadu (Alaska); the North Face of Rungofarka and a prominent rock buttress on the nearby Northwest Face of Peak 5780 (India); the North Face of Barnaj II (India); and the world’s second highest unclimbed peak, Mucho Chhish…
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American Alpine Club to present five awards at its annual Benefit Dinner Feb. 25
The American Alpine Club opens registration for its Annual Benefit Dinner on February 25 in Seattle, Washington. Five people will receive awards. Conrad Anker is the keynote speaker.
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Russians win Golden Axe for Moveable Feast on Thalay Sagar
The golden trio of Dmitry Golovchenko, Dmitry Grigoriev and Sergey Nilov score another Russian Golden Axe for their alpine-style first ascent of Moveable Feast (ED2 M7 WI5 5c A3, 1400m) on Thalay Sagar (6904m) last September.
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Freedom in the Hills
For decades, female alpinists have made extraordinary ascents from remote big walls to storm-swept peaks. In an article from Alpinist 52 (Winter 2015), Charlotte Austin explored some of the lingering barriers of the past and the growing potential for the future.
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