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Kevin Jorgeson: The Last Day on the Dawn Wall
Alpinist’s Digital Editor Chris Van Leuven visits with Kevin Jorgeson at the Outdoor Retailer show on January 22 to discuss the last day of the Dawn Wall, Day 19, Jorgeson’s battle with the 5.12 flare on Pitch 29, and the final moments before reaching the top.
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Face Time with Wild Man Stevie Haston
Alpinist sits down at the Outdoor Retailer trade show to interview Stevie Haston, the UK powerhouse known for his bold, standard-setting climbs across all genres, hair-raising desert-tower free ascents on rock barely more solid than mud and his blunt-spoken manner. Now living on the Maltese island of Gozo, Haston still whips out 1,500-pull-up training days…
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Colin Haley and Marc-Andre Leclerc Make First Ascent of La Travesia del Oso Buda (aka the “Reverse Torre Traverse”) in Patagonia
From January 18 through 22, Colin Haley and Marc-André Leclerc made the first ascent of what had been dubbed the “Reverse Torre Traverse,” a south-to-north enchainment of Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, Punta Herron and Aguja Standhardt in Argentine Patagonia. They called their route, first attempted by Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Chad Kellogg in early 2012—and which…
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Minnesota Adventurer Lonnie Dupre Completes first January Solo of Denali
After 90 days spread over four attempts, Lonnie Dupre, from Grand Marais, Minnesota, became the first person to make a January solo of Denali when he completed his ascent of the West Buttress.
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Salewa Wildfires: Blister-Free Hikers That Climb Surprisingly Well
I’m one of those guys who have a different pair of shoes for every situation and will debate my options to an embarrassing extent. Over a year ago, while searching for a good all-around pair of approach shoes, I tried a pair of Salewa Wildfires.
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French Team Makes First Traverse of the Seven Sisters, Sierra du Fief, Wiencke Island, Antarctica
Six French climbers make the first traverse of the Seven Sisters in the Sierra du Fief, Wiencke Island, Antarctica over three days in late November 2014, encountering committing terrain and steep, technical snow and ice hard above the Southern Ocean.
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Bob Craig: Remembering the 1953 K2 Expedition
Alpinist contributor Bob Craig passed away at age 90. He’s legendary for his role in the 1953 K2 expedition and the attempt to rescue team member Art Gilkey. The following story was originally published in Alpinist 37.
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Free at Last: Caldwell, Jorgeson Top Out the Dawn Wall
After seven years work and 19 days spent on the side of El Cap, Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson have freed El Cap’s Dawn Wall (5.14d) in Yosemite Valley.
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Mike Dewey: The Art of Observation
Longtime Yosemite climber, and mixed-medium artist Mike Dewey expresses his love for the walls and climbing community on canvas and stone.
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Video: Fitz Traverse
Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold travel to Patagonia to find the limit of their capabilities, and “do the kind of stuff [they] see in Alpinist Magazine.”
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Wales Grade-X Winter Route Climbed Onsight
In late December, Ian Parnell and Pete Harrison completed the new route graded X, 9, Wide Asleep, onsight in North Wales. Over two pitches, the team ascended poorly protected, insecure terrain–protected solely by cams and nuts–pulling off “by far the hardest thing I’ve been on,” said Parnell.
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Cerro Torre Free Soloed in Whiteout Conditions
From El Chalten, Alpinist correspondent Rolo Garibotti relays what he calls, “one of the most harrowing ascents in Patagonian climbing history.”
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Video: Aid Turns Free on Mt. Hooker
Inspired during a trip to Wyoming’s Wind River Range the previous season, David Allfrey, Nik Berry and Mason Earle returned to the Winds this August to free an A3 route on Mt. Hooker. Kyle Berkompas filmed their project.
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Slideshow: Unclimbed Big Walls of Siberia
Inspired by a single photo, Australians Chris Fitzgerald and Chris Warner visit unclimbed big walls in remote northeastern Russia. Pulling out moss clumps and excavating gear placements with a nut tool, the team established six new routes and, with their camera, captured the experience.
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Alpine-Style Attempts on the South Face of Nuptse
Two Canadian alpinists dodge large avalanches on the storied South Face of Nuptse. None of their several attempts extends beyond half height on the massive alpine wall, but–through careful decision-making–they live to tell the story.
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Short Film: K6 West
Raphael Slawinski, Ian Welsted and Jesse Huey travel to Pakistan to climb K6 West. At the moment of their departure down the KKH, they learn of the massacre at Nanga Parbat base camp. Each is now faced with a decision. As Jesse returns home, Raphael and Ian continue with the trip and ultimately stand on…
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Back(side) Pain
“Sixty-five Sierra routes that first summer; about a dozen the next, a fifth of them first ascents. Brutal-as-hell approaches with seventy-pound packs, decrepit knees and bad footwear. I blame Steve, but really, he and I were just the syringe plungers, and the Sierra Nevada was the heroin.”
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