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Matt Van Biene: Chalten Portraits
Recently, while browsing through Instagram, I noticed about a half dozen images by Matt Van Biene–climber portraits taken in El Chalten, Argentine Patagonia. The black-and-white portraits, shot very close to the climbers, caught my eye. I sent him a quick message stating that we were interested in showcasing his work on alpinist.com.
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The Question: The Direct East Face of Golgotha
The Revelation Mountains, Alaska, during Clint Helander and Jason Stuckey’s first ascent of Apocalypse (9,345′) in April 2013. David Roberts noticed the distant range in 1966, while he was on an expedition to the Kitchatna Spires.
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Grip-Positive Winter Runners: Icebug DTS BUGrip
DTS BUGrip provides a comfortable, somewhat cushy, and nimble ride, with positive traction for nearly all conditions.
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Arc’teryx Nozone 35 Pack: An Alpine Climbing Workhorse
While the basic anatomy of a pack hasn’t evolved much since the hand-sewn rucksacks of Norman Clyde, a thoughtfully designed pack can be a major help to a day in the mountains. There’s a fine line, however, between a smooth design and gimmicks.
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John Price: Canadian Rockies Ice
Photographer John Price has been climbing for the past six years and shooting photos for the past three.”I’ve been lucky to have photographic mentors in the Rockies,” he tells us.
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The Gift: Tahu Rutum, West Face, Karakoram, Pakistan
“I always thought it that it looked like a Patagonian spire misplaced in Pakistan,” Dempster says.
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Carl Battreall: A Collection of Climbed and Unclimbed Alaska Peaks
Photographer Carl Battreall shares his collection of Alaska’s climbed and unclimbed peaks. The photos in this collection are from his upcoming book, The Alaska Range, due out in spring 2016.
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The Cold Case: Mt. Herschel, East Face, Antarctica
The unclimbed east face of Mt. Herschel (3355m), an objective that Sir Edmund Hillary once dreamed of, more than a decade after the first ascent of Mt. Everest.
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Sarah Uhl–Rear View Mountains
“I’m self-taught, my friend” says illustrator Sarah Uhl over heavy static from the road on her way back to Carbondale, Colo. from Hood River, Ore. “I started making illustrations about a year ago.” Her work has appeared in the latest issue of Alpinist, various projects for The American Alpine Club, Mountain Flyer Magazine and on…
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The Mysterious Case of Beka Brakai Chhok
8000ers.com, historian Eberhard Jurgalski describes the uncertain elevations of Beka Brakai Chhok’s three peaks as “truly one of the most confusing subjects in the history of High Asian research.
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A House of Stone and Snow
In which our editor travels to California to meet the women who founded America’s first monthly climbing magazine, Summit, in 1955.
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Letters | A Man out of Time: Eric Bjornstad (1934-2014)
Stewart Green pens an elegy for Eric Bjornstad (1934–2014), author of Desert Rock, climber of sandstone spires and lover of open spaces.
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North Face of Cerro Torre Gets First Integral Ascent
Between February 2 and 3, Colin Haley and Marc-Andre Leclerc–despite a constant barrage of falling ice, which bloodied Leclerc’s knuckles–completed the first integral ascent of Cerro Torre’s north face. Haley notes their route’s six new pitches “are mostly covered in rime ice about 90 percent of the year, and under those conditions would be extremely…
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Interview with Reinhold Messner
Alpinist’s Digital Editor Chris Van Leuven sits down with legendary alpinist Reinhold Messner on February 2, 2015, to talk about rock climbing, high-altitude climbing, Messner’s castle and mountaineering museum, and his well-known climbing partner Peter Habeler.
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Kahtoola MICROspikes: Instant Traction Control
Mary Williams considers climbing approaches and descents at Rocky Mountain National Park a necessary evil. For improved traction, she wears micro spikes to cross icy terrain. “I have used [them] with light hiking boots, my ice-climbing boots, running shoes, and even a few times over my ski boots,” she writes.
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26 Tool Users: The Jensen Pack
Described by the famous mountaineering writer David Roberts as a man “for whom no expedition was long enough,” Don Jensen spent years creating the perfect homemade gear for his epic excursions. Brad Rassler tells the story of the rare “Jensen Pack,” a relic of its creator’s intense climbing and quiet ingenuity.
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