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The Love Letter
Becca and Fitz Cahall reflect on their 300-mile climbing and backpacking adventure in the Sierras.
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MSR Reactor Stove: Powerfully Efficient
For many years, stove inefficiency was a problem that was largely unaddressed by manufacturers. Finally, a new generation of hyper-efficient stoves hit the market, and MSR’s Reactor is by far the best. In my experience, the Reactor reduces my fuel needs by 50 percent.
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The Asgard Project
Hauling 30-plus pounds of equipment up the 1000m face of Mt. Asgard, Filmmaker Alastair Lee foregoes light-and-fast style in order to produce a film that is visually outstanding and leaves the audience with sweat-drenched palms and a hankering to seek out epic of their own.
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The Asgard Project: A Q&A with Alastair Lee
Hauling 30-plus pounds of equipment up the 1000m face of Mt. Asgard, Filmmaker Alastair Lee foregoes light-and-fast style in order to produce a film that is visually outstanding and leaves the audience with sweat-drenched palms and a hankering to seek out epic of their own.
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Boltless Mixed FA in Canadian Rockies
In the last weeks of winter, Grant Meekins and Raphael Slawinski put up a bolt-free ice and mixed line, The Peach (WI5 M8, 110m), at Storm Creek in the Canadian Rockies. Slawinski later returned with Jerome Yearly to make the second ascent, with Wiktor Skupinski along to film the climb.
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FA Bourbon Tan in Hyalite Canyon
Craig Pope and Mark Pujic on the first ascent of their new mixed line in Hyalite Canyon, Bourbon Tan, M8+. According to videographer Pete Tapley “[The]verall length is right at 60m and the grade is M8+ with some bolt protection to start off, then classic Hyalite M6 choss on natural gear to reach the ice.”…
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Metolius Master Cam: Sleek and Sexy
While there is a cam or two on the market that has a wider expansion range and can handle shallower cracks, the Master Cam is a worthy competitor and an expertly manufactured piece of pro.
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Speed Series Part IV: Hans Florine
Recently, we at Alpinist picked the brains of the speediest climbers to learn more about speed climbing and how it fits into our grade-crazy community. “I think we may have [speed climbed] before we called it that… We were in college, and we wanted to get in as much climbing as we could before classes…
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Piolet d’Or Nominees
Since the Piolet d’Or’s rebirth, multiple awards have become standard, and it seems likely that on April 15 there could be several given out. Each of the teams exhibited good style in a committing environment. The Piolet d’Or’s festivities will run from the weekend April 9-10 through April 16 with evening events open to the…
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Mountain Hardwear Phantom 32: Packs Like A Peanut
Weighing just 1 pound, 7 ounces, this down-filled sack has no frills. No Gore-Tex or other waterproof coatings to repel moisture and no extra, hidden pockets for your snicker bars. It’s just a simple pairing of paper-thin nylon and 800-fill down.
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Golden Decade: The Birth of 8000m Winter Climbing
Winter in the Himalaya is difficult for many reasons. Temperatures at base camp can plummet to minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit, and much lower farther up. Because of the cold, climbing at night is virtually impossible, and the days are short. The winds are much stronger and more persistent because of the jet stream, which blows…
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Hungry First Ascent on Mt. Bradley
Mark Allen and Graham Zimmerman opened a new route up the SE buttress of Mount Bradley on April 5, 2010. The 4600 feet of sustained climbing over varied terrain was named Vitalogy (Alaska Grade 5, 5.9R A1 WI5 M6+) and consists of 29 pitches, 19 of which were M5 or WI4 or harder. The ascent…
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