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Griffith’s Patagonia 2010
Alpinist reported on Jon Griffith and Will Sim’s great experience in Patagonia soon after the two returned to the UK in “East Face of Piergiorgio”. But the Newswire couldn’t capture the “full value” of the experience. Though it might take a little while to load, we at Alpinist think you will enjoy the following video.…
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Speed Series Part III: Ueli Steck
Recently, we at Alpinist picked the brains of the speediest climbers to learn more about speed climbing and how it fits into our grade-crazy community. “I think it is nice to be able to climb a peak in several hours instead of several days. You don’t have to suffer so much.”
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Black Diamond Cyborg Crampons: A Beautifully Crafted Hack-Job
Even though stainless steel isn’t the ultralight miracle metal that one might believe, Black Diamond’s design and construction alone make the newest Cyborg one of the best tools available for hard winter climbing.
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Jeff Lowe’s Metanoia
In the early 1990’s Lowe struggled through a divorce, a failed business and deep remorse for neglecting his two-year-old daughter. Needing an escape from this emotional crisis, he made a solo pilgrimage to the Eiger’s Nordwand. When one of the world’s greatest climbers makes a solo winter attempt on the most legendary north face in…
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Bozeman’s Pete Tapley on a Mixed First Ascent
A trad route with decent natural gear that includes small cams, wires, pins and some clutch Spectre placements in frozen moss and choss.
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Prana Tangra Pant: Fashionably Dysfunctional
After several months of abuse, capped off with a thrutchy ascent of Red Rock’s Epinephrine, I was amazed to find Prana’s Tangra pants still looking new. However, when it came to everyday use, the pants are clearly designed for fashion over function.
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Speed Series Part II: Sean Leary and Dean Potter
Recently, we at Alpinist picked the brains of the speediest climbers to learn more about speed climbing and how it fits into our grade-crazy community. “We’re always filled with the knowledge that if we fall, it’s a minimum 100-footer and probably way more. You’re going to kill your friend and probably mutilate or kill yourself.”
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Book Review: Recompense: Streams Summits and Reflections
Irwin began writing when his father made him keep a journal on family vacations. As he grew older, writing became an increasingly important part of his life. He coupled this passion with a love of the outdoors, and it has taken him across North America and beyond. His travels are always under the banner of…
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Monte Sarmiento in Video
Video from Ralf Gantzhorn’s Monte Sarmiento climb. (For more info see Alpinist 32.)
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Petzl Sum’tec Ice Axe: For The Weight-Conscious Climber
While the axe is fairly light, it is the weight distribution that really impresses me. With a curved aluminum shaft and a stainless steel head, this tool feels solid in the hand and swings like champ.
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