Skip to content
Home » Archives for Alexander Gukov

Alexander Gukov

Sergey Glazunov on the final pitch that he climbed on the North Ridge of Latok I. He was reaching for freedom; his mode of life was unsophisticated, Glazunov's wife, Nina, wrote to Alpinist. [Photo] Alexander Gukov

Latok I: Impossible Is Not Forever

In this story that first appeared in Alpinist 64, Alexander Gukov shares his experience of surviving alone for a week at 6200 meters on Latok I (7145m) after his partner Sergey Glazunov fell to his death on the descent with most of their equipment. Gukov was ultimately rescued by a dramatic helicopter operation flown by Pakistani pilots Major Qazi Muhammad Mazhar-ud-Din, Major Abid Rafique, Lieutenant Colonel Muhammad Anjum Rafique and Major Fakhar-e-Abbas. Prior to the accident, Gukov and Glazunov reached a historic high point on the legendary North Ridge, which has thwarted the previous four decades of attempts.