Skip to content
Home » Archives for Derek Franz

Derek Franz

A discussion of mixed reactions to a mixed winter ascent of the Diamond

Whenever there is an ascent that breaks away from expected norms in terms of tactics, style, difficulty, whatever—it is usually worth a second look, if for no other reason than to better understand its implications. A recent example came across my desk on March 21, regarding an odd “mixed-style” (my words) free ascent of D7 (IV 5.11+) on the Diamond of Longs Peak (14,255′) in Rocky Mountain National Park…. When I saw the photos of the climbers using ice tools on a classic alpine summer free route, like many people, I was startled. But then again, would we think twice if these tools were being used on a winter alpine climb elsewhere?

A mixed-style free ascent of the Diamond in winter, sans crampons

Colorado climbers Jesse Huey, Matt Segal and their Canadian friend Quentin Roberts recently completed a winter, mixed-style free ascent of D7 on the Diamond of Longs Peak (Neniisoteyou’u, 14,255′). Though they used ice axes to dry tool the thin cracks of the 5.11+ route, they did not use crampons to avoid leaving scratch marks on one of the state’s most classic alpine climbs. There were also short sections that required bare hands to climb. All three climbed the ca. 600-foot route without jumaring to clean and follow the pitches.

Impossible Things

Dawn Wall free in a day. There, I thought it, said it, wrote it. Someday it’s sure to happen, yes?

Séb Berthe agrees…. Saying, speaking, believing—these all make a thing that much closer to reality. Or, potentially, they only lead one deeper into rabbit holes of delusion. Fanciful, futuristic things are generally assumed to be delusion until they are made real by alchemists—people who maybe have to be at least a little bit mad to believe such possibilities in the first place.

Climbers constantly test themselves against delusion.

Navigating a Crack of Doom

Any climber worth their salt must understand their relationship with ego. It affects not only the individual but also those around them, even the environment and future generations, a ring of ripple effects…. More and more people are entering the ‘sport’ with a different focus and philosophy. What they are seeking on the rocks and mountains is changing. As editor of this magazine, I am a cog in this industry. I see it as my job to remind us of our history, our original values and inspirations—the less tangible aspects of this activity that we love—and what stands to be lost if we allow ourselves to be swept up in the modern rabid thirst for more.

A Preview of the 28th Annual Bozeman Ice Fest

The annual Bozeman Ice Festival kicks off tonight, Tuesday, December 10, with a free Community Night hosted by the American Alpine Club at 6 p.m. at the Lockhorn Cider House. The festival officially starts Wednesday, December 11, and continues through Sunday, December 15, with a variety of events, ranging from ice climbing clinics in Hyalite Canyon to entertainment in town, including presentations by top climbers, film screenings and parties. Many of the proceeds benefit a cost-sharing program between the Forest Service, Gallatin County and Friends of Hyalite that keeps the road into the canyon plowed and open through the winter. Other proceeds support the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Center.

Echoes through the Ages

In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 86, Derek Franz contemplates the future and finds hope. He writes: “While digging through the Alpinist archive for research related to this issue, I happened upon articles whose words resonated not only with my current situation but with what today’s writers continue to express in different ways. They are reminders that we are not alone, that others have come before and survived whatever we find ourselves facing today. They emphasize greater truths that remain consistent despite all the upheaval we continue to witness in this modern age of technology, climate change and global conflict…. Rereading those stories by different people from different times and places, I noticed a more ancient story begin to emerge, as though one voice were speaking through multiple people across generations.”

A Drone in the Desert

In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 85—which is now available on newsstands and in our online store—Derek Franz encounters a drone on top of a desert tower and contemplates the changes brought on by the technological age, and what the future might hold for climbing in America.

Two proposals threaten America’s rock climbing

Policy proposals are now being considered by the National Park Service (NPS) and US Forest Service (USFS) that threaten to fundamentally change the way rock climbing is managed. A comment period for these proposals has recently been extended to January 30. It is important that climbers make our presence known and kindly share our perspectives to help non-climbing land managers better understand what we do and how we do it, especially when it comes to climbing in wilderness areas.

Sharp End: Shiny Things

In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 84—which is now available on newsstands and in our online store—Derek Franz weighs the pros and cons of the Piolets d’Or. “The propriety of Piolets’ “Golden Ice Axe” awards in the realm of alpinism has been debated ever since the first ceremony in 1992,” he writes. “If the Piolets d’Or fail to live up to their aspirational status as a touchstone for alpinism’s greatest ideals, they at least provide us with a weather vane for the culture.”