In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 94, Derek Franz considers the culture that produced Dean Potter after a four-part documentary about Potter’s life, titled “The Dark Wizard,” was released in April. The docuseries “provides a retrospective on his life and influence, and an occasion to consider a culture that celebrates risk-taking and rebellious, free-spirited characters,” Franz writes.
In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 93, Derek Franz celebrates the humble value of small backwater places that can offer us much more than what meets the eye. He writes: “In recent months, a cluster of humble boulders near a small town where I grew up has given me solace. As a teenager I couldn’t wait to escape that quiet, dusty town. I was unaware of the boulders and so many other things nearby. Now, whenever I have a few hours on a clear ‘winter’ day, I drive half an hour to return to a place I once loathed…. I am searching for the line. That can be many things. On the rock, it is an enchainment of moves that flow together like music.”
In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 92, Derek Franz writes of his experience climbing in the Swiss Alps with The North Face team last September and learning about everything that went into developing the Advanced Mountain Kit Summit Series 2.0.
In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 91, Derek Franz considers recurring themes and the responsibilities of storytelling, and announces his trip to Nepal. He writes: “Storytelling is at its highest form when done in service to the bigger picture that goes beyond one person’s benefit; when the threads intertwine and connect, creating a fabric, a mosaic, a song, an ongoing conversation. At their best, stories are how we understand who we are, where we come from, where we are now, what we value or despise and where we might be going. At their worst, stories are lies we recite to ourselves and others—to hide unpleasant truths, elevate ourselves and bring others down…. Context gives depth to the perspective. Or negates it.”
If I were heading out the door to spend a summer day scampering in mountains like the Tetons, the Black Diamond Technician Pro approach shoes… Read More »Black Diamond Technician Pro Approach Shoes are built for Climbers
[This Sharp End story originally appeared in Alpinist 90 (Summer 2025), which is now available on newsstands and in our online store. Only a small fraction of our… Read More »Close to Home
Whenever there is an ascent that breaks away from expected norms in terms of tactics, style, difficulty, whatever—it is usually worth a second look, if for no other reason than to better understand its implications. A recent example came across my desk on March 21, regarding an odd “mixed-style” (my words) free ascent of D7 (IV 5.11+) on the Diamond of Longs Peak (14,255′) in Rocky Mountain National Park…. When I saw the photos of the climbers using ice tools on a classic alpine summer free route, like many people, I was startled. But then again, would we think twice if these tools were being used on a winter alpine climb elsewhere?
Colorado climbers Jesse Huey, Matt Segal and their Canadian friend Quentin Roberts recently completed a winter, mixed-style free ascent of D7 on the Diamond of Longs Peak (Neniisoteyou’u, 14,255′). Though they used ice axes to dry tool the thin cracks of the 5.11+ route, they did not use crampons to avoid leaving scratch marks on one of the state’s most classic alpine climbs. There were also short sections that required bare hands to climb. All three climbed the ca. 600-foot route without jumaring to clean and follow the pitches.
Dawn Wall free in a day. There, I thought it, said it, wrote it. Someday it’s sure to happen, yes?
Séb Berthe agrees…. Saying, speaking, believing—these all make a thing that much closer to reality. Or, potentially, they only lead one deeper into rabbit holes of delusion. Fanciful, futuristic things are generally assumed to be delusion until they are made real by alchemists—people who maybe have to be at least a little bit mad to believe such possibilities in the first place.
Climbers constantly test themselves against delusion.
Any climber worth their salt must understand their relationship with ego. It affects not only the individual but also those around them, even the environment and future generations, a ring of ripple effects…. More and more people are entering the ‘sport’ with a different focus and philosophy. What they are seeking on the rocks and mountains is changing. As editor of this magazine, I am a cog in this industry. I see it as my job to remind us of our history, our original values and inspirations—the less tangible aspects of this activity that we love—and what stands to be lost if we allow ourselves to be swept up in the modern rabid thirst for more.
The annual Bozeman Ice Festival kicks off tonight, Tuesday, December 10, with a free Community Night hosted by the American Alpine Club at 6 p.m. at the Lockhorn Cider House. The festival officially starts Wednesday, December 11, and continues through Sunday, December 15, with a variety of events, ranging from ice climbing clinics in Hyalite Canyon to entertainment in town, including presentations by top climbers, film screenings and parties. Many of the proceeds benefit a cost-sharing program between the Forest Service, Gallatin County and Friends of Hyalite that keeps the road into the canyon plowed and open through the winter. Other proceeds support the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Center.
[This story originally appeared in Alpinist 87 (Autumn 2024), which is now available on newsstands and in our online store. Only a small fraction of… Read More »Fabulous Roman Candles
