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Derek Franz

Tom Frost leads Pitch 29 during the first ascent of the Salathe Wall on El Capitan in 1961. Frost, Chuck Pratt and Royal Robbins completed the climb over nine and a half days. [Photo] Royal Robbins, Tom Frost collection

The passing of two legends: Tom Frost and Jeff Lowe

Yesterday, August 24, was a fateful day for the climbing world, as two of America’s greatest climbing legends and icons passed away–Tom Frost and Jeff Lowe. Frost died of cancer at a hospice center in Oakdale, California, and Lowe died several hours later in Colorado after suffering from a prolonged illness that has been described as an “unknown neurodegenerative process” similar to MS and ALS. Frost was 81 and Lowe was 67. Both men were visionaries and innovators who impacted the philosophy, techniques and standards of difficulty during their respective generations.

Tom Livingstone leading on Latok I during his successful ascent from the north side in which he and Ales Cesen and Luka Strazar climbed three-quarters of the North Ridge before traversing right to reach the south face where they continued to the top. [Photo] Ales Cesen/Luka Strazar

Tom Livingstone recounts the experience of climbing Latok I

Tom Livingstone, Ales Cesen and Luka Strazar recently became the first climbers to summit Latok I (7145m) from the north side, climbing most of the fabled North Ridge before traversing to the south side of the mountain where they continued to the top. Upon returning home, Livingstone shared details about their ascent and what it was like to watch from base camp as the helicopter rescue for Alexander Gukov unfolded. Meanwhile, statements from Gukov after the rescue indicate that he and Sergey Glazunov likely reached a new high point on the North Ridge.

Helias Millerioux, Benjamin Guigonnet, Frederic Degoulet on the summit ridge of Nuptse, en route to completing the first ascent of the South Face (WI6 M5+, 2200m). The climb was selected for a Piolet d'Or.

Four climbs and one person to be recognized at 2018 Piolets d’Or in Ladek, Poland

Out of 58 climbs on the list of “significant ascents” in 2017, the Piolets d’Or committee has announced three climbs and two special mentions to be recognized at the upcoming 2018 award ceremony, which will be held outside of France–at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland–for the first time in the ceremony’s history. The event is scheduled for September 20-23. The honorees are Marek Holecek, Zdenek Hak, Kazuya Hiraide, Kenro Nakajima, Frederic Degoulet, Benjamin Guigonnet, Helias Millerioux, Chantel Astorga, Anne Gilbert Chase, Jason Thompson and Alex Honnold.

The La Sportiva TX4 Mid was a great, lightweight option for the hike to the top of Saint Vrain Mountain (12,162') in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. Visible in the background, from left to right, are Chiefs Head, Longs Peak and Mt. Meeker. [Photo] Mandi Franz

La Sportiva TX4 Mid GTX boots: ‘Like walking on air’

The La Sportiva TX4 Mid boots are described by the company as an “access boot designed to excel in tricky, technical terrain.” Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz finds that the feather-light boots live up to that classification but are not ideal for weak or injured feet that need more support. Four stars.

David Allfrey tops out Zodiac on El Capitan at the end of his solo, record-setting ascent June 2, when he finished the route in 10 hours, 52 minutes, 50 seconds. The previous solo record of 11:18 was set by Nick Fowler in 2002. [Photo] Skiy Detray

Four other speed records made on El Capitan in May and June while Honnold and Caldwell were lapping the Nose

More El Capitan speed records have been set since May 5 when Brandon Adams and Roger Putnam climbed the Shield in 8 hours, 55 minutes; Josie McKee and Diana Wendt set a female speed record on the Salathe, climbing the route in 16:24 on June 1; David Allfrey set the solo record of 10:52:50 on Zodiac on June 2; and Alexa Flower, Jane Jackson and Gena Wood completed the fastest all-female ascent of Zodiac in 16:20 on June 15. Meanwhile, Libby Sauter, who set the female record on the Nose with Mayan Smith-Gobat in 2014, has pulled back from speed climbing and shares her thoughts about the risks people are taking.