![Nanga Parbat's Diamir Face with the Mazeno Ridge extending toward the foreground. [Photo] Guilhem Vellut, Wikimedia](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/mazeno-ridge-1-1.jpg?resize=930%2C620&ssl=1)
Mariano Galvan and Alberto Zerain are presumed to have died in an avalanche at around 6000 meters on Nanga Parbat (8125m). The two climbers had gone missing on June 24 while attempting the second ascent of the long, technical Mazeno Ridge.
![Katie Bono trains at 13,500 feet on Denali, June 1, to prepare for her speed ascent on June 13-14 in which she set a probable female round-trip record of 21 hours, 6 minutes. That time is the third or fourth fastest time overall. [Photo] Savannah Cummins](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/katie-bono-denali-1-1.jpg?resize=930%2C620&ssl=1)
On June 13-14, Katie Bono completed a round-trip ascent of Denali’s West Buttress in 21 hours, 6 minutes. This is likely a female speed record, and it is the third or fourth fastest known time overall. Bono made the ascent in difficult conditions with heavy wind and drifting snow that forced her to break trail on the way up and down, sometimes navigating in a whiteout. She sustained mild frostbite to her face.
![Kilian Jornet points to Mt. Everest's shrouded summit while acclimatizing for his first speed ascent of the North Col route. [Photo] Sebastien Montaz-Rosset/Kilian Jornet collection](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/kilian-jornet-everest-speed-ascents-1.jpg?resize=930%2C620&ssl=1)
Spanish climber and ultra-runner Kilian Jornet completed two rapid Everest ascents without using fixed ropes or bottled oxygen on the North Col route in one week, on May 21 and 27. He pushed on through illness and windy weather, summiting in 17 hours and returning to advanced base camp in 28:30 on his fastest attempt. This story includes an interview with Jornet and a look back at some of the history of rare fast and light Everest ascents.
![The Black Diamond Access Hoody keeps Derek Franz comfortable between climbs at Main Elk, Colorado, in early March. [Photo] Mandi Franz](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/black-diamond-access-hoody-1-1.jpg?resize=930%2C620&ssl=1)
The Black Diamond Access Hoody has kept Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz comfy in a variety of temperatures and conditions since January. He’s happy with the jacket except that the zipper started having trouble after one month of light use.
![Ryan Franz down climbs from the summit of Bridger Jack Butte to access a rappel station in April 2015. The King of Pain pinnacle is in the background. The area is part of the Bears Ears National Monument designated by outgoing President Barack Obama on December 28, 2016. [Photo] Derek Franz](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/zinke-interim-report-on-bears-ears.jpg?resize=930%2C620&ssl=1)
Interior Secretary Ryan Zinke’s interim report on Bears Ears National Monument recommends “revising” or reducing the monument’s boundaries while keeping some areas protected. On April 26, President Donald Trump ordered Zinke to review all national monuments designated since 1996 and issue a final report by late August.
Tommy Caldwell’s autobiography, The Push, is as daring as his multitude of world-class climbing accomplishments, which range from 5.14 and 5.15 sport routes around the world, and towering free ascents on Yosemite’s El Capitan–including the first free ascent of the Dawn Wall (VI 5.14d) in January 2015 with Kevin Jorgeson–to the first completion of the Fitz Roy Traverse in Patagonia with Alex Honnold in 2014. Caldwell’s writing is honest and vulnerable, which makes his moments of triumph even more inspiring.
![In this photo that was taken through a telescope from the ground, Alex Honnold carefully makes his way across the highly technical, friction-dependent moves low on the Freerider route (VI 5.13a, 3,000') during his historic ropeless ascent of El Capitan, June 3. [Photo] Tom Evans](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/honnold-freerider-solo-1.jpg?resize=930%2C620&ssl=1)
Alex Honnold became the first person to free solo El Capitan via the Freerider route (VI 5.13a, 3,000′) on June 3, which is indisputably a landmark in the history of climbing. Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz recounts climbing with Honnold before he became famous and interviews him about scaling El Cap without a rope.
![With Yosemite Falls rumbling to his left, Jon Cardwell face climbs into the final 5.12 splitter crack on Pitch 13 of the Misty Wall (5.13, 1,700') during a free ascent with Sasha DiGiulian on May 27. Cardwell had previously freed the individual pitches with Marcus Garcia last autumn, but the recent ascent is the first time the route has been free climbed in a continuous push, which took about 14.5 hours. [Photo] Marcus Garcia](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/yosemite-legacy-project-1-scaled.jpg?resize=930%2C620&ssl=1)
The Legacy Restoration Project is an emerging program to clean up forgotten routes as a way to remind climbers of the potential that still lies beyond the obvious classics. The program has resulted in four new high-end free climbs in Yosemite Valley since last September, starting with the West Face of the Sentinel. The most recent addition is a 14.5-hour ascent of the Misty Wall (5.13, 1,700′) by Jon Cardwell, Sasha DiGiulian and Marcus Garcia on May 27.
![The Salt Palace Convention Center in Salt Lake City, Utah, will host the Outdoor Retailer at least one more time this July. [Photo] hakkun, Wikimedia](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/patagonia-or-1.jpg?resize=930%2C620&ssl=1)
Emerald Expositions–the company that owns Outdoor Retailer–announced May 24 that it has acquired the SnowSports Industries America (SIA) Snow Show and that the winter OR trade show will now be held in conjunction with the SIA show in Denver in January. This announcement is an indication that OR is likely to leave Salt Lake City after July, though a decision about a new venue for the summer Outdoor Retailer has yet to be made.
![The east face of the Ship's Prow with MantraMandala (VI A3+, 450m) marked in red. [Photo] Marek Raganowicz](https://i0.wp.com/alpinist.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/marek-ships-prow-1.jpg?resize=930%2C620&ssl=1)
Though he intended to do some solo climbing, Marek Raganowicz hadn’t planned on spending the entire six weeks alone among the polar bears on Baffin Island between mid-March and May, but that’s what happened after his partner, Marcin Tomaszewski, had some problems with light frostbite on his toes and had to leave a couple weeks after they arrived at Sam Ford Fjord on March 3. His original hope was to complete a climb with Tomaszewski in March, solo in April, and then rendezvous with another friend for a climb in May.
