Derek Franz

The American Alpine Club recently announced that it is collaborating with the Colorado Mountain Club, the Mazamas and The Mountaineers “to promote improvements in climbing safety, coordinate stewardship and advocate for climbing areas in the United States.”

Three Italians completed a route up the middle of Cerro Murallon’s east face in early February that was first attempted in 1999. They named their route after a book written by an Argentinian Air Force captain–El Valor del Miedo (M6 A2 90+ degrees, 1000m), which translates as “The Value of Fear.” The 2017 Patagonia summer climbing season has seen a return of storm cycles and unpredictable conditions that are more typical of historical weather patterns for the area. The Italians’ East Face route would normally be an unlikely choice for summer.

Jeff Lowe will receive the Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award in April.

Clark County Commissioners allow a 2011 concept plan to proceed for a 5,000-home development on Blue Diamond Hill near Red Rock National Conservation Area, which is a worldwide attraction for climbers. Several more steps remain for final approval and more court hearings are anticipated.

Polish climber Marek Raganowicz spent 16 days soloing Suser gjennom Harryland (VI 5.10b A3, 650m) on Norway’s Troll Wall from January 11 to 26. The route finishes far short of the true summit, but the ascent is one of the best solo efforts on the Troll in winter so far.

The inaugural First Ascent Expedition Award is giving grants to four teams across three categories. The Grit and Rock Foundation created the award last September to “encourage female participation in pioneering alpine ascents and to further the understanding and exploration of the unclimbed peaks.”

Arc’teryx, Ibex and Polartec join Patagonia to oppose Utah’s efforts to rescind Bears Ears National Monument. The tactics range from boycotting the Salt Lake City location of the Outdoor Retailer trade show and making financial donations to conservation efforts, to using the trade show as an opportunity to lobby Utah legislators.

On February 3, Utah legislators moved to rescind Bears Ears National Monument. In response, Patagonia announced the company will stop attending the Outdoor Retailer trade shows hosted twice a year in Salt Lake City, Utah, but the company has no further plans to pull its business from Utah at this time.

Now that President Donald Trump is in office, and a new, Republican majority controls both the U.S. House and Senate, discussions about federal land management and resource extraction have intensified. This article briefly summarizes the current actions that are taking place and the political landscape, especially as it pertains to the new Bears Ears National Monument, which is near the center of the federal lands debate.

The Indian Mountaineering Foundation offers reduced permit fees on 81 select mountains for the 2017 season. The goal is to encourage foreign expeditions and disperse traffic from some of the most popular areas.

When Hansjorg Auer and Alex Blumel couldn’t get a permit for their original objective last November they were pointed to Gimmigela East (7005m). It turned out to be a great choice, as they became the first people to approach the mountain from the northern side and climb its previously untouched North Face (M4, 85-degree ice, 1200m).