Derek Franz

Avalanches kill hundreds in Kashmir

by Derek Franz

We are sad to report that a series of avalanches has devastated villages in the Pakistan-controlled part of Kashmir. Steve Swenson, a climber and author… Read More »Avalanches kill hundreds in Kashmir

American Alpine Club Annual Benefit Dinner features “climbers uniting for the planet”

by Derek Franz

The American Alpine Club Annual Benefit Dinner weekend will be in Denver on Friday and Saturday, March 13-14. Tickets are now available on the AAC… Read More »American Alpine Club Annual Benefit Dinner features “climbers uniting for the planet”

Derek Franz on Magnetar (5.13d), Rifle Mountain Park, Colorado. The Edelrid Bulletproof quickdraw is the first one clipped to the rope above the ground, near the lower right corner of the frame. The carabiner that the Bulletproof draw replaced was severely grooved. [Photo] Karissa Frye

Edelrid Bulletproof quickdraw: The burliness of steel with the lightness of aluminum

by Derek Franz

Alpinist Digital Editor tested the Edelrid Bulletproof quickdraw at Rifle Mountain Park, a world-famous sport crag where the volume of traffic frequently destroys carabiners. The… Read More »Edelrid Bulletproof quickdraw: The burliness of steel with the lightness of aluminum

Mandi Franz follows the Vector Traverse on Escape Artist (III 5.10-, 7 pitches) in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado. [Photo] Derek Franz

The Less You Talk

by Derek Franz

In this Climbing Life story from Alpinist 68, our digital editor Derek Franz articulates the value of staying quiet while climbing with his wife. “I’ve… Read More »The Less You Talk

Brad Gobright climbing Lurking Fear (VI 5.7 C2, 2,000') on El Capitan.[Photo] Cheyne Lempe

Brad Gobright dies in a rappelling accident while climbing in Mexico

by Derek Franz

Brad Gobright died in a rappelling accident in El Potrero Chico, Mexico on November 27. The 31-year-old Californian was a highly accomplished free-soloist and big… Read More »Brad Gobright dies in a rappelling accident while climbing in Mexico

The author appreciating the sticky rubber of the Salewa Wildfire Edge approach shoes during a log crossing on a backpack trip in western Colorado last June. [Photo] Mandi Franz

Salewa Wildfire Edge: Technical approach shoes to keep up with the mountain goats

by Derek Franz

Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz has been wearing the Salewa Wildfire Edge approach shoes everywhere for the last several months. He reports that the shoes… Read More »Salewa Wildfire Edge: Technical approach shoes to keep up with the mountain goats

This illustration by Andreas Schmidt appeared with Sara Aranda's Full Value story, Into Darkness We Go, in Alpinist 62. [Illustration] Andreas Schmidt

Two Alpinist stories receive honorable mentions in Best American anthologies

by Derek Franz

Two stories from Alpinist 62 (2018) have been selected for the “Notables Lists” for Best American Essays and Best American Sports Writing, respectively: Sara Ann… Read More »Two Alpinist stories receive honorable mentions in Best American anthologies

Phil Powers at an American Alpine Club Benefit Dinner with Doug Walker, a former president of the AAC who died in an avalanche in 2016. [Photo] Jim Aikman

American Alpine Club CEO Phil Powers to step down in summer 2020

by Derek Franz

American Alpine Club CEO Phil Powers announced yesterday, October 1, that he plans to retire after 14 years. He will remain CEO until this winter,… Read More »American Alpine Club CEO Phil Powers to step down in summer 2020

The author linking moves on Magnetar (5.13d) at Rifle Mountain Park, Colorado, last May. [Photo] Karissa Frye

Lowa Rocket: climbing shoes made for heel/toe hooking

by Derek Franz

After extensive testing, Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz reports that the Lowa Rockets are best suited for toe- and heel-hooking, with a secure fit that… Read More »Lowa Rocket: climbing shoes made for heel/toe hooking

The cover of Alpinist 66 features Lonnie Kauk climbing Magic Line (5.14c) in Yosemite Valley. The story is on the long list for Best Mountaineering Article in the Banff Mountain Book Competition. 13 Feet Under by Jayme Moye is from the same issue and is also on the Banff longlist in the same category. [Photo] Jim Thornburg

Two Alpinist stories included on the longlist for Banff Mountain Book Competition; Boardman Tasker shortlist also announced

by Derek Franz

Two stories from Alpinist 66 are on the longlist for Best Mountaineering Article in the 2019 Banff competition: “13 Feet Under” By Jayme Moye, and… Read More »Two Alpinist stories included on the longlist for Banff Mountain Book Competition; Boardman Tasker shortlist also announced

Mt. Hooker with Gambling in the Winds (V 5.12+, 2,000') drawn in red. [Photo] Austin Siadak

Friends complete Hayden Kennedy’s vision on Mt. Hooker: Gambling in the Winds (V 5.12+)

by Derek Franz

In 2015, Hayden Kennedy and Whit Magro spent a week in Wyoming’s Wind River Range establishing a route over new terrain over halfway up the… Read More »Friends complete Hayden Kennedy’s vision on Mt. Hooker: Gambling in the Winds (V 5.12+)

Derek Franz enjoying coffee and oatmeal made with the Sea to Summit Alpha Pot Cookset during a backpack trip in western Colorado last June. [Photo] Mandi Franz

Sea to Summit Alpha Pot Cookset 2.1: Light, compact, self-contained and user friendly

by Derek Franz

Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz tested the Sea to Summit Alpha Pot Cookset and awarded it five stars for its “lightweight, compact, self-contained and user… Read More »Sea to Summit Alpha Pot Cookset 2.1: Light, compact, self-contained and user friendly