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Larry Goldie

Wild Country Helium: A Finicky But Quality Friend

I have spent the last year and a half plugging the Heliums into cracks throughout the Western US, including the North Cascades, Smith Rocks, Red Rock, Lover’s Leap, Yosemite and a few other areas. While they have a design common among high-quality cams, they were trickier to place and to clean because of their stem length and, in the case of the larger sizes, trigger placement.

Mammut Trion Guide 45L: Not Like Climbing With A Backboard

I have often struggled to find an alpine pack for one- or two-night trips. A pack of this size needs to be comfortable enough to carry up to about forty pounds of gear while hiking into a high camp, yet trim and lithe enough to use for technical climbing on summit bids. Mammut has found a happy medium with the 45L Trion Guide.

Nemo Espri 2P Tent: Shelter From (Most) Storms

The Espri is exceptionally light for a double-wall, with a simple set-up and take-down. And though it’s advertised as a backpacking tent, I suspected it would work for most summer alpine climbing in the Cascades and Sierra Nevada. I was right.

Black Diamond Kingpins: Better Than Hardware Store Gloves

Ultimately, the Kingpins don’t fit my hand as snugly as I had hoped, though they are still one of the best multi-purpose gloves I have used. The combination of durability, craftsmanship, warmth and attention to detail make these my current favorites for a variety of alpine endeavors.

Prana Tangra Pant: Fashionably Dysfunctional

After several months of abuse, capped off with a thrutchy ascent of Red Rock’s Epinephrine, I was amazed to find Prana’s Tangra pants still looking new. However, when it came to everyday use, the pants are clearly designed for fashion over function.

La Sportiva TC Pro: Trad Machines

The TC Pros are comfortable, offer great protection while jamming and edge powerfully. However, because these shoes lack the sensitivity and aggressive shape of a sport-climbing shoe, face-climbing bolt clippers might not be impressed.