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Obituary: Layton Kor (1938-2013)
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The name says it all. Everyone who is a climber has heard his name. Every climber has seen his name plastered all over the guidebooks and on route names like Kor’s Flake, Kor’s Door, Kor’s Korner and the Kor-Ingalls Route. Layton Kor was ubiquitous in the 1960s. The man was everywhere, stirring up an impatient storm on the rocks wherever he landed.
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In Gold Blood
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One year ago I sat idly and watched as my friends enjoyed a beautiful, warm winter day of cragging at the New River Gorge in West Virginia…. I reminisced of moments from weeks prior: the sound of our machete as it cut through thick vines; the unmistakable metallic squawk of the Bearded Bellbird; waterfalls; flowers; heaven on earth; black flies; dazzling views; big walls; dirt in my eyes; ant bites; the sound of a breaking bone…
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50 Years on Everest
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Each year, the Everest situation comes under greater scrutiny, with new stories of crowds and deaths and with new allegations of climbers lacking compassion for each other…. Each person’s choice of style is his or her own, a decision that has to do with highly personal variables. Regardless of how we feel about the use of various aids, the people who stand atop these peaks still take each step themselves.
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64 Journey into Night
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In October 2013, Ueli Steck astounded the international climbing community with a rapid solo on Annapurna’s South Face. But for him, the ascent was a kind of private, nocturnal pilgrimage, influenced by the recollection and example of departed heroes.
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Alpinist 41: The Cover (Back)story
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We were on the North Face of the Eiger. Clint Eastwood was dangling free over an ugly overhang with his rope attached to the end of a ladder that was rigged like a diving board. It protruded about 20 feet over the edge of a rock ledge….
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Future First Ascents: The Faces of the Mugs Stump Award
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We already introduced their objectives. Now meet the nine teams chasing those summits with all of Mug Stump’s boldness and commitment to light and clean alpinism.
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An Arctic Expedition Trilogy Perceived
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The continued search to discover and climb the northernmost rock formations on Earth in Franz Josef Land, Russia
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Golgotha and the Angel: Reveling in the Unclimbed
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Through spindrift and 70 mph winds, Clint Helander and Ben Trocki chase 45-year-old projects in the Revelation Mountains of Alaska.
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Four Climbers, K7, One Ogre
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North Ridge, Latok I: Stuck In The Middle
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Tipping The Scale In Favor Of Bailing
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Mugs Stump-Funded Expeditions: 2012 In Review
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Find out what happened to each of the teams funded by our 2012 Mugs Stump Award.
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42 Mountain Profile: The Eiger Contradiction, Part II
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70 Verticality
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78 The Sanctity of Space
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42 A Reasonable Risk?
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56 Edges of Land and Light
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72 Afloat
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Diary of Yosemite’s Climber Stewards: On Patrol
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Up to 3,000-foot vertical walls, 5,000 routes, 1,200 square miles, 150-180 days of climbing per year and two (count them) two full-time Yosemite climbing rangers. In this installment of the Diary of Yosemite’s Climber Stewards, Climbing Ranger Ben Doyle gets paid to climb El Cap in a day.
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2012 Bozeman Ice Festival Livestream
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You don’t have to be in Bozeman to see the ice tower competition and talks by Hayden and Michael Kennedy, Doug Chabot and others at the Ice Fest! Find the live footage here.
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Dirtbaggery, Vol. 3: Surviving Thanksgiving Small Talk
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When we meet people for the first time, we ask their name, and we ask them their job. And although I know climbers who’ve adopted unorthodox monikers such as Trout Man, Chongo, Coach or Alf, they have no trouble answering their names. The job category, that one’s often tougher. If you’re like me, you put on a sheepish grin and give a halfway-there explanation, and struggle until failure to explain what you’re doing with yourself and why.
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Bozeman Ice Fest Writing Contest
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Does the sound of crunching leaves underfoot and a biting frost on your morning run have you itchin’ to break out the pointy hardware and sniff out some vertical ice? Nostalgic for your first time swinging a tool? Eager to enjoy some meditation time on your front points? Tell us about it.
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Dirtbaggery, Vol. 2: Saving Time, Wasting Time and Explaining Climbing on the Internet
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As a beginning climber, I would read Internet forums and climbing blogs for hours. I justified these pupil-glazing sessions as “research” into a world I knew nothing about….In the interest of helping others avoid such hours fraught with peril, I’m going to attempt to answer nearly every Internet climbing conundrum in the span of a single Q and A session.
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Ueber Steigeisentechnik- Crampon Manufacturing in 1908
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What the ice climbers of the future will be able to climb, I know not. But I find it hard to believe that we have already reached the limits of what is possible. — Oscar Eckenstein, 1908
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The Lho La Tragedy: Beginning of the End
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In 1989 an avalanche struck six Polish climbers descending from the West Ridge of Everest. Bernadette McDonald and Jerzy Porebski recount the disaster that ended the Golden Age of Polish Himalayan Climbing and the rescue that saved one man’s life. With illustrations by Ewa Labaj.
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El Capitan: The Movie
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Joe Iurato’s Little Climbers
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I’m trying to think of the best way to explain it. I got laid off in 2008 and fell back on my art pretty hard. It picked me up. In a sense I found myself falling out of climbing and I couldn’t figure out why. Maybe it was because of everything that had gone on.
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Dirtbaggery, Vol. 1: Just Seam Grip It
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Just Seam Grip It! – The art, and adhesive, of gear improvement.
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Diary of a Yosemite Climbing Steward
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Squamish Gondola Project Receives Initial Approval
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The mecca of Canadian granite, the Stawamus Chief in Squamish, British Columbia may soon see a new development. The Sea to Sky Gondola Corporation is the central proponent of a new project which aims to build a gondola to ferry passengers from the base of Shannon Falls by the Chief parking lot to the top of a ridge leading to the summit of nearby Mount Habrich. With a projected construction cost in the region of $20 million (CAD), the rides will cost approximately $29 a head.
